MN Fisher

That's a typical cycle. Cloudy days, the plankton rise up to catch as much sunlight as possible for photosynthesis.

Darn it...missed my timing. Fisherman's HQ has them for $25 https://fishermansheadquarters.com/plano-edge-stowaway-utility-box/?sku=PLASE600

On a budget - so my chatters are kept in a plain, old Plano 3701. A dozen mixed 1/2oz and 3/8oz fill just over half the box.

We need a 'love' emoji on this board.

Two of my early-season catches in 2020 were both on a WP-90 Bluegill. I seem to have found the retrieve-speed that doesn't make them spin other than the tail.

Solution - don't run it faster as there is no 'out of the strike zone' in my experience. I've had hits on my 90s close to the canoe...they follow the sucker all the way in.

75s have always been 'chunky' compared to the 90s...60s are also 'fatter' in profile,

The action on the 7' MH is usually Fast. Be great for spinner, chatter, jigs, t-rigs....MH/F is pretty much the 'Swiss Army knife' of casting rods. Does a number of things quite well...and others adequately.

The longer rod loads a bit more, giving you extra distance on casts. Also the 'action' part of the tip is a bit longer along the rod, giving you better control of a hooked fish. Downside to extra length - precision casting to a specific spot suffers...shorter rods are better for 'hitting a target'. 2 inches might not seem all that much, but there is a difference.

Pretty much any coupler repair kit for a 2" will work. https://www.amazon.com/Seachoice-52481-Coupler-Repair-Kit/dp/B000XBIUS0

Probably won't work. It's not just the motor, it's also the control board for it...and that control board wants the full voltage.

Nor my trifocals...

I would think that a company that's been in business for almost 50 years (formed 1972, incorporated 1992) wouldn't make outlandish claims. https://www.dnb.com/business-directory/company-profiles.tie_down_inc.e7872d763f46499d40f99d2414f8e1df.html

Same here. City of Chaska (sw of Minneapolis) has a park with a pond. Normally, only city residents can use the park, but as the MN-DNR stocks trout in the pond...it's open to anyone to fish.

Ya, what Reel and Scott say too - I only put 70-80 yds of mainline on a reel...rest is filled with cheap mono backing - 10# Big Game on my BC reels.

Try what Mike suggested or you can change your knot - Uni or the MK, which is what I use for all my terminal knots.

I would still put something behind the braid - a turn of electrical tape maybe - otherwise it can slip. And yes, an arbor knot would be fine.

You forgot about the MOLLE attachment points for small utility boxes and plastics bags.

^ I like faster and stiffer for lipless - 29 IPT and a fast action rod Most of my lipless are on a Supreme 7.1/Fury 703C Heavier ones are on a Patriarch 7.1/Fury 704C Both reels run 29 IPT

I did one mass replace - got a box filled with cranks and jerks. Many were missing hooks, most of the others the hooks were in bad shape.

One of these years I'll be able to afford to upgrade all my cranks/jerks to Owners...but when I can get a 25 count of 9650s for just over $5 - and they've been good to me - it's gonna be a bit.

Positioning - you want the two points to 'nestle' against the body when the lure is in motion...put the treble on backwards and the single hook will bang against the body and mar it.

I keep a copy of that in the box that I keep my spare trebles in.

Empty mayonnaise/peanut butter jar.

I like keeping to original size-type myself. If the lure came equipped with a #4 round-bend, that's what I replace it with. These are my preferred hooks - but they can get expensive if you do a mass replace. In that instance I get these. https://www.fishusa.com/VMC-9650-Round-Bend-Treble-Hooks