MN Fisher

What brand is the hook your using now? Order of preference for me Gamakatsu - probably the best you can get Owner - always a good alternate to Gama Reaction Tackle - if you're on a budget, these are better than VMC, Eagle Claw or Mustad in my experience. They all have #1 EWG hooks, Gama and Owner go as small as #4 depending on the hook model.

If you're dropping to 25% charge regularly - then go with Lithiums. Lead acid (Flooded, Gel, AGM) doesn't like going below 50% charge often - it shortens the lifespan. The lithiums won't last longer per outing - you'll still drop to 25% charge - but they can handle going to 5% or less charge regularly without shortening the lifespan...so they are better in that respect. If you get two batteries and connect them in parallel - then you'll have basically 200AH - or you can just get a single 200AH battery.

Yep - and you can get the same stuff for lots cheaper. What he's selling is a 'Nasal Speculum' at 3x the price - just cause he labels it as a 'fishing tool'. Then he's taking thin-wall Silicon tubing and cutting lengths - 50 pieces for $7 when you can get 10' (120x1" lengths) for $7 off Amazon.

Small world - I dated a gal who's home town was in that area. Spent a T-Day weekend there...she was still in college (Northern Michigan up in Marquette) @A-Jay - Andy, you starting a side business?

I keep a checklist in Google Sheets with check boxes that get cleared after every trip.

Two of the convenience stores around me try...small little corners with some cheap rigs (usually Daiwa D-Shock spinning combos) a few lures, some hooks and a fridge with worms, grubs and bagged minnows. One is different - about 1/3 of the store is tackle and boat supplies. They have worms and grubs in a fridge...but 3 actual tanks for minnows and shiners instead of the bags of half-dead minnows. Two local tackle shops don't bother to carry much in the way of live bait cause this BP station does such a good job of handling that part.

While I'll buy many fishing items from Amazon - line is not one of them...I've been burned a couple times.

I had some Tatsu that was gifted to me...It is better than the InvizX I usually use, but not enough to warrant the price difference. I may stock up on 832 and InvizX though I'm set for this year.

Omnia is 'blowing out' fishing line....ALL line is 30% off...no code.

(blinks) I haven't even spent $5k total on Bass Trek...and that includes the electronics.

Like my good buddy, Gim - I box mine...but in Plano 3707-10 open compartment boxes. Each box is a different type bait...craws/lizards, stickworms, grubs, etc. The open box is my Zoom Trick Worms and Zoom Speed Worms...rebagged in laminated bait-bags from HERE to fit better.

My experience replacing a Fuego CT with a Tatula CT on the same rod loading the same line....maybe 5%...so 7'-8' more on a 50 yard cast (which is a long cast in my book).

T-Wing will handle the knot better than a standard round or oval aperture.

And molybdenum too - but you're wanting a low carbon stainless...either 304L or 316L - with 316L having better corrosion resistance...most dive equipment (regulators, etc) is made from 316L for this reason.

Pure stainless will still cause it (see Airshot's post on identifying pure stainless) - just no where near as fast as 'commercial grade' stainless. They don't sell rivnuts of pure stainless, but they do sell bolts made of it. Aluminum rivnut in aluminum seat with a pure stainless bolt is gonna be about the best if you don't have access to the underside. Best thing is to make the hole a size where you have to tap the rivnut in before you set it...not pound it in...just a few light taps with a weighted or rubber mallet.

Galvanic corrosion happens in wet environments when the water is impure (not distilled)...doesn't take electricity running through it.

And I would use the Aluminum Rivnuts in this instance...not steel ones. Then as Airshot says...true SS for the bolts.

Even if small and light - like a #0 or #1 Mepps, Creme Tiny Lipless (1/10oz, 1.5") or a Rapala UL Shad (1/8oz 1/5")... they're all moving baits. Finesse to me is something that sits still or slowly crawls the bottom....not 'speeds' through various levels of the water column.

Depends on the rod specs My Mojo Bass MLs top out at 1/2oz My Reflexions ML tops out at 5/8oz My Celilo Light also tops out at 5/8oz

I'd much prefer riv-nuts and bolt it in place.

Chris is like

If I was gonna do an all-finesse outing....here's the rigs and baits I'd initially set up. First four rigs are from my bass arsenal, and I'd add the other two from my panfish arsenal 1: Miravel 2500 on Mojo 7'1" M/F - 14# Spro 8x to 10# InvizX - 1/4oz Shakey Head, Zoom Trick Worm 2: Miravel 2500 on Reflexions A 7'0" ML/MF - 14# Spro 8x to 8# InvizX - 1/8oz Free Rig, Zoom Baby Brush Hog 3: Miravel 2500 on Mojo 6'10" ML/XF - 10# 832 to 6# InvizX - 1/8oz Ned-Head, Mr Twister Ned Ringer 4: Miravel 1000 on St Croix Panfish 7'3" ML/XF - 8# 832 to 6# InvizX - 1/16 oz Ned-Head, Z-Man Micro Goat 5: President XT-30 on Celilo 7'0" L/F - 15# Smackdown to 6# Siege - 1/16oz Wacky Jig, Yum Dinger 6: Nasci 1000 on Procyon 7'0" L/F - 10# YZ Super to 6# InvizX - 1/8oz Shakey Head, Zoom Finesse Worm

I was going light and small that day - 1/16oz with a #1 hook...and the crappie and bluegill were 'keeper' size - 9"+

Like Gim - sunfish and crappie are also attracted to Neds/Neko...one time out I pulled in as many bluegill as bass using a Ned. Panfish are a 'Tick-Tick-Tick' as he says Dinks (under 14") are more of a 'Tap-Tap' Larger bass are a 'Thump'