5/0

GYCB.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXjagwdjAhg I’ve used this knot, but I don’t let the knot reach my reel. 5-6 foot leader. Oops, link not working. It’s the Crazy Alberto and found on Salt Strong site.

Reel covers and rod socks while on rack. Periodically I’ll wipe down rods and eyes with Pledge wipes. The reels with a soft cloth/microfiber cloth.

I have no thoughts on the names one way or another. But your post brings up a question. In the current environment, why aren’t there demands that those names be removed or changed? Maybe there are, just haven’t seen it. Or maybe a bait company isn’t big enough to fly into the radar.

At all times or when on the big motor over 5 MPH?

Thank you. I was looking at those. Since I’ve never owned an auto and know nothing about them do they need to be rearmed with a new kit once deployed?

I’m wanting to replace my full jacket type vest with a suspenders type. Not necessarily looking for brand and I don’t think I want the strictly manual inflation (due to obvious safety reasons). So I’m left with auto only or auto/manual combination. Looking for recommendations on these. Thanks....Joe

Can’t imagine what you’ve went through and continue to go through today. My prayers are with you and your family! Like others have said, stay strong and cherish the memories.

Catching them before disaster strikes was a big one for me.

Yes. Thank you! Both are basically Arkies, but why the difference in the line tie?

Keep the IMX too, I have the same rod bought around 2005-2007 I think. Good rod for 200.00-300.00 back then!

I have a couple packs each of jig heads labeled Arky and Casting. Both have the Arky footprint and the line tie is close but not on the nose of the head for each. I assume this is for working the bait better through cover. The difference is that the Arky tie is in line with the hook point and the Casting tie is perpendicular to the hook point. Why the difference in similar looking jigs? Thanks....Joe

Was looking at the Sahara on Amazon and saw they were 2017 models. Is that the current model?

I have 4 of the Curados. 50.00 sounds about right. I was told that if they are in real good condition you could get more. The problem is getting parts for them. All mine work really good, if it’s in decent condition I’d keep and use it.

Yes I believe they are 196, pumpkin with green flake. I’ve used GYCB grubs for a long time as jig trailers, mostly the 5”. An interesting point, I never realized that their 5” grubs are actually 3”!

Culprits look like curly tails online, but are actually ribbontails. This with the original worm, don’t know is the fat max is the same.

Placed an order Thursday, will get it today. All items were in stock though and the order was over 100.00.

Was knocking around the idea of using these in craw colors on chatterbaits and swim jigs as a crawdad imitator. Primarily due to the fact that many craw type trailers are hard to get right now in the colors I would want. Is the profile really that important on faster moving baits? Thanks....Joe

Thanks all for the info. Out of retirement they come. As one of you mentioned they probably are better on spinning gear. When I think about it, not being able to cast them in a bait caster may be why I quit using them.

These are Rapala oldies I have hanging around, haven’t been used in years. Gonna switch out split rings, hooks, and bring them out of retirement. Top is labeled as a Shad Rap Deep Runner. How deep will it run? Middle are labeled as Fat Raps. The left is a FR7, the right has no other designation. Would these be considered square bills today? Both have squarish bills, but not as pronounced as today’s baits. I’m assuming the FR7 runs to 7, no idea on the other. Bottom is labeled just as a Rapala. Have no idea what model it is or how deep it runs. Any help would be appreciated!

I’ve noticed many here mention Shad Raps when favorite crankbait questions crop up. Is the appeal the narrower body or the bait’s action? What makes it different from the thicker body baits? Thanks....Joe

Will this rod handle the whole range of crankbaits, shallow to deep?

I see what you’re talking about, but that’s pretty tight on cast control. Does it cost you distance? I’m not talking about trying to cast a mile, but getting the bait out a decent distance. I use mine for moving baits like cranks.

I had practiced with mine at home several times with the recommended loose cast control and the #2 setting. Backlashes up the wazoo! Took it out on the water for the first time last week. Before leaving I decided to set it up like any bait caster. Cast control set so the lure stopped when hitting the ground with no overruns. The brakes on #2. Got on the water and after several casts started backing off the cast control until the lure would drop considerably faster. The reel casted like a dream, not one backlash! I did use my thumb lightly on the spool during flight and you could hear the computer whine doing it’s breaking thing, I was impressed. So I’d say set the knob as you would any other reel and back off until you hit the sweet spot.