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Maggiesmaster

Best jig for timber

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I’m going to start using jigs as soon as it warms up some, but need to know the best style to use in timber. I’ve read most of the ‘jig thread’, and have learned a lot, but still can’t figure that out. I’ve learned I don’t need football or swim jigs, but what do I need?

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1 minute ago, Maggiesmaster said:

I’m going to start using jigs as soon as it warms up some, but need to know the best style to use in timber. I’ve read most of the ‘jig thread’, and have learned a lot, but still can’t figure that out. I’ve learned I don’t need football or swim jigs, but what do I need?

Go to seibert outdoors and grab their brush jig in different sizes and colors. 

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I use and recommend  the siebert dock rocker for wood and cover.  They skip into tight places and come through cover well.   

 

I have not used siebert brush jigs but I never found brush jigs in general to be very good in wood.... go figure....

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The vast majority of my jigging is in nasty wood.  I have tried most of Siebert's styles.  I use his  Brush Jigs (Dredge, Grid Iron, Extreme) almost exclusively now.

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Besides siebert, I use terminator and fat sack tackle pitching jigs. 

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Siebert Brush jig!

 

There's also the BOSS wood walker jighead, which you can add a skirt to.

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An Arky head jig is a good one to cover most of the bases other than football and swim. If you find one with a vertical line tie it makes a good grass jig as well. The Seibert Dockrocker looks like a good one for that. I use a grass jig in brush, mostly because it's so weedy a few places I fish. It's a very weedless jig. One made by a guy on here. He makes all kinds of custom jigs to order. If you want his info, send me a PM.

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A good jig for cover including trees and bushes has the hook eye at the front nose of the jig. Reason; if the hook eye is back from the nose the line pulls the jig nose into branch or twig and the jig flips over snagging it, if the weed gaurd doesn't effectively protect the hook point.

Look at the jig head design, several work good.

Tom

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6 minutes ago, WRB said:

A good jig for cover including trees and bushes has the hook eye at the front nose of the jig. Reason; if the hook eye is back from the nose the line pulls the jig nose into branch or twig and the jig flips over snagging it, if the weed gaurd doesn't effectively protect the hook point.

Look at the jig head design, several work good.

Tom

 

 

 

Do you mean the line tie directly on top of the jig head?

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29 minutes ago, RHuff said:

 

 

 

Do you mean the line tie directly on top of the jig head?

Look at Seiberts EnRAGED series jig head closely.

Tom

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In really heavy timber, I'll switch from a jig to slither rig. @A-Jay has some good pictures of them and how you can put them together. I pure the collared sinkers, paint, and tie the skirt directly. It comes through heavy wood much better than a jig and protects your knot way better than a jig. This is one of mine rigged and ready to fish.

No automatic alt text available.

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6 hours ago, Bluebasser86 said:

In really heavy timber, I'll switch from a jig to slither rig. @A-Jay has some good pictures of them and how you can put them together. I pure the collared sinkers, paint, and tie the skirt directly. It comes through heavy wood much better than a jig and protects your knot way better than a jig. This is one of mine rigged and ready to fish.

No automatic alt text available.

I have a few slither jigs. Nice.

 

I think it is generally recommended that one peg the nose weight. I'd be interested in knowing if you and/or A-Jay do this.

 

And, I suppose a slither jig is sort of a hybrid between a pegged T-Rigged plastic, just with a skirt, this and a traditional jig.

 

I'm sort of analytical and always looking for/considering the "why" behind something and I haven't decided what it supposedly is that would make a slither jig penetrate better, not hang up. It does seem to be true. Is it the fact that the hook and the weight, being separated, allow for some actual flexibility in the overall movement? Ideas?

 

Brad

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52 minutes ago, Brad Reid said:

I have a few slither jigs. Nice.

 

I think it is generally recommended that one peg the nose weight. I'd be interested in knowing if you and/or A-Jay do this.

 

And, I suppose a slither jig is sort of a hybrid between a pegged T-Rigged plastic, just with a skirt, this and a traditional jig.

 

I'm sort of analytical and always looking for/considering the "why" behind something and I haven't decided what it supposedly is that would make a slither jig penetrate better, not hang up. It does seem to be true. Is it the fact that the hook and the weight, being separated, allow for some actual flexibility in the overall movement? Ideas?

 

Brad

I always peg them and I'm sure A-Jay does the same.

 

The line being behind the weight protects your knot. The shape of the weight itself allows it to fit through smaller spaces and it seems that it wedges less than a jig does. Being able to hide the hook in the plastic is another thing that makes it more difficult to snag than a regular jig and the trailer you choose can effect that as well.

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Down here we call em Texas Rigged Jigs 😉

 

I've been throwing since the mid 70s in brush, grass, & timber.

 

 

 

images (8).jpg

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Them there slither rigs are absolutely awesome and I'll be trying them soon. :)

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post-13860-0-40721000-1401632952_thumb.jpgpost-13860-0-01278300-1401632994_thumb.jpg

 

Been throwing this deal for a while - not as long or with the same effectiveness as @Catt but I still manage to catch a few. 

 Clearly standard jigs have their place and I fish them often. 

But when I want to get into & just as important, out of, moderate to heavy cover, including timber & grass, I use this rig.   Accordingly, I prefer to peg the weight.  

 

🙂

A-Jay

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The key to fishing any jig in any cover in my opinion is more about the angler than the jig.

 

If I'm fishing grass with a grass jig & I come across brush I don't change jigs!

 

It takes a little bit of skill to get a Texas Rig or Jig-n-Craw through cover.

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FWIW....flat eye jigs have always come through wood, rock, brush, and dock/boat hoist's better for me than vertical line tie jigs. Vertical line tie jigs have a place for me though, and that's in grass.

 

I build my wood/dock/rock jigs with Boss heads. Finesse flip heads for shallow wood, brush, lay downs, and dock work, and their football, and regular ball heads for rock work.

 

For grass I use their  "Invader" heavy grass heads, and their swim jig heads. I  not only use the swim jig heads for ...well, making swim jigs, but for also making lighter grass flipping jigs, they work excellent for both.

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If I were to pick a jig specifically for timber 😉

 

 

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I really like the Omega Custom Tackle Pro-Mega Structure jig for around timber and laydowns.

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I made a few TexasJigs , slither jigs whatever   from a spinnerbait mold .

IMG_9578.jpg

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11 minutes ago, scaleface said:

I made a few TexasJigs , slither jigs whatever   from a spinnerbait mold .

IMG_9578.jpg

I do the same thing. I just lube a chunk of heavy spinnerbait wire and and put it through the mold. The wire pulls right out and you are in business.

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1 minute ago, Russ E said:

I do the same thing. I just lube a chunk of heavy spinnerbait wire and and put it through the mold. The wire pulls right out and you are in business.

I use a flexible wire , then pull it through with pliers . What do you lube it with ?

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