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Joining the 'real' boat crowd


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  • Super User

As promised - here's the vid showing progress and current status.

 

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  • Super User
Just now, gimruis said:

Those bow lights are nice.  I like how they're basically mounted right on the hull.  Nice and bright too.

$10 on Amazon - when you're on a budget, you do the best you can for as low as you can.

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  • Super User
6 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

$10 on Amazon - when you're on a budget, you do the best you can for as low as you can.

I just thought it was unique.  Most of the bow lighting I see is a peg you stick in a hole rather than mounted ones.  I like it.

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16 hours ago, gimruis said:

I just thought it was unique.  Most of the bow lighting I see is a peg you stick in a hole rather than mounted ones.  I like it.

The latest trend is to have them in the rub rail.  I'm not really a fan.

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3 hours ago, J Francho said:

The latest trend is to have them in the rub rail.  I'm not really a fan.

No, I wouldn't care for that either.  I could see the light getting ruined if you scrape a dock or post or something.

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  • Super User

I actually thought about mounting them on the rub-rail - but with the bow-cap they'd be too far back for my taste...and mounting to the bow cap wasn't feasible due to the thickness of the cast aluminum.

 

I like them where they are...looks kinda sleek and I don't have that 'dome' thing sticking up.

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6 minutes ago, J Francho said:

What's the arc of visibility on those?

Their site says 112.5 degrees - mounted at the slight angle I have them, they should be visible to 90+ degrees port/starboard and as seen in the vid, they're both visible for a bit either side of directly forward.

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6 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I think that's the USCG requirement as well.

Yep - major part is that they must be visible 22.5+ degrees aft of abeam (directly to the side). A quick check and mine are visible 34 degrees aft of abeam.

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  • Super User

And now I have a motor

 

Local guy is a certified OMC mechanic - he not only runs a repair shop out of his garage, but buys older non-working motors to 30hp and rebuilds them before selling them

 

1973 Evinrude model 25352A - 25hp electric start. He ran it for me when I went to look at it. Started right up, idles smooth, shifts easily, and churns water quite well.

 

I'll take a pic when I get it on the boat.

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4 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

And now I have a motor

 

Local guy is a certified OMC mechanic - he not only runs a repair shop out of his garage, but buys older non-working motors to 30hp and rebuilds them before selling them

 

1973 Evinrude model 25352A - 25hp electric start. He ran it for me when I went to look at it. Started right up, idles smooth, shifts easily, and churns water quite well.

 

I'll take a pic when I get it on the boat.

Yes sir!!!! Love the old evinrudes 

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Just now, TnRiver46 said:

Yes sir!!!! Love the old evinrudes 

Oh I have experience with them - the old runabout had a 1972 40hp Evinrude on the back. Those things just don't want to die.

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1 minute ago, MN Fisher said:

Oh I have experience with them - the old runabout had a 1972 40hp Evinrude on the back. Those things just don't want to die.

And if they do, you can fix them with vice grips 

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  • Super User

Slowly making progress - cockpit area is done. Vertical transition piece between this and the casting deck is being sealed, starboard casting deck is being sealed. The NOCO plug in will be mounted to the transition piece, that connects to the Genius 2 that's in the electrical compartment.

20220524_132113-1.thumb.jpg.a11d7634f05c1270c74f16501e1ba997.jpg

 

I lucked out on the forward hinge for the gas-tank compartment lid - the two outside holes lined up perfectly with the two left-forward mounting holes for the kingpin base.

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  • Super User

Got the 'hard' parts of the TM bracket done. Now I just need to bolt it to the TM deck, bolt the 'platform' to the bracket and bolt the TM base to the platform. I'm using all 1/8" aluminum - 2"x2" angle for the base, 3/4"x3/4" for the 'platform' support arms and plate for the risers and 'platform' itself...yes, the front is shorter than the back because the prow is higher than the gunwales at the rear, so the bracket had to be taller in the rear to make the TM level. While the bracket supports the lion's share of the weight, the very front of the TM base rests on the bow cap.

20220526_152634-1.thumb.jpg.59d0620116ede3015d5046939b85b3ee.jpg

 

I also filled all the old holes in the bow cap and got one coat of aluminum paint on it to make it look 'new'. Second coat will be tomorrow.

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You're getting there Ken, congrats on the o/b.  When you paint the trailer walk plank, add a little sand in with the paint for a non-skid surface. 

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  • Super User
10 minutes ago, detroit1 said:

You're getting there Ken, congrats on the o/b.  When you paint the trailer walk plank, add a little sand in with the paint for a non-skid surface. 

That was the plan - have some 'washed' sand set aside for it already.

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