When you reel in a fish and tug gently on the fish with a loose line. The hook coms out easily. 

YUP   Time to file a new point again.  

On single hook presentations, I always check the hook point prior to the first cast. I won't chance loosing a fish because a hook never penetrated past the barb. It only takes a second or two to pull that hook point across your thumbnail and 15-20 seconds to hit it with a file.  You'll spend more time than that, beating yourself up over a lost fish.

7 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

On single hook presentations, I always check the hook point prior to the first cast. I won't chance loosing a fish because a hook never penetrated past the barb. It only takes a second or two to pull that hook point across your thumbnail and 15-20 seconds to hit it with a file.  You'll spend more time than that, beating yourself up over a lost fish.

I could not agree more.

If I'm in full blown t-rig mode I'm fishing stuff that is constantly bending/dulling hook points/fraying line.  In a 8 hour day I wouldn't be surprised if I swapped hooks on a 30 minute average during a tournament.

 

Used hooks go to the used hook compartment to be restored/disposed of when my odds of catching a fish are at 0%.  Same goes with plastics, quick to switch out to new and will look at them later if they are salvageable.

 

 

I set the hook like they owe me money. When I lose a fish I check the hook. Terrible approach.

15 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

When you reel in a fish and tug gently on the fish with a loose line. The hook coms out easily. 

YUP   Time to file a new point again.  

Why even use a hook ? 

Single Hooks - yes , sharpen ; Treble Hooks - no , replace .

I sharpen my hooks as needed.  It takes less time and costs a whole lot less than replacing hooks.  

My problem is, I typically don't sharpen them as much as I should.  If I get a good snag, I might take the time to sharpen it if the fishing is slow.  And sometimes I'll get bored at night and go through my tackle box feeling for dull hooks.  But more often than not, I just keep on fishing, until a fish gets loose.  Then I'll sharpen it while staring at the water like I'm trying to pick a fight at the bar.  

14 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

On single hook presentations, I always check the hook point prior to the first cast. I won't chance loosing a fish because a hook never penetrated past the barb. It only takes a second or two to pull that hook point across your thumbnail and 15-20 seconds to hit it with a file.  You'll spend more time than that, beating yourself up over a lost fish.

 

Bad hooks are pretty much a thing of the past.  Today's hooks are so much better than what we had years ago.   The "cross their eyes" hook set was necessary because the hooks were dull when you took them out of the package.  Today's quality hooks can penetrate from the weight of the fish alone. That said, hook points can become dull with use.  Salt water fish have much tougher jaws and skin than bass and their gill plates can be hard as rock.  That plus the size and power of the fish requires constant hook sharpening.  Here is the hone than we have been using offshore for years.  This hone will cut through a 12/0 hook like butter.  It's cheap and effective.  There are fancier and more expensive hook sharpeners, but none that work any better.

 

 

I find the 25 for $5 basspro and Academy hooks are soft.  I use them but carry a diamond file and check them frequently.

I sharpen the treble hooks on moving baits and worm hooks before I head out on a trip.  I check the treble hooks closely.  If one is broken or has been filed down more than the others then I swap out the hooks.

When the Japanese introduced Gamakatsu, Owner, Diiachi sharpe hardened metal hooks the era of having a battery operate hook hone was over. Both Eagle Claw and Mustad had to scramble to be competitive. VMC treble hooks replaced Mustad for most hard baits offered by lure makers.

Today I have a habit of checking hook points but rarely find a dull worm or jig hook out of the box because switched to Gamakatsu and Owners back in early 90’s. I will resharpen my jig hooks if it’s dulled from rocks or something. Worm hooks or treble hooks get changed.

Yes, I spent a lot of time honing 7/0 to 12/0 off shore Marlin and Tuna lures back in the day. You need very sharpe hooks for Marlin to penetrate the boney bills and mouth, doesn’t matter as much for tuna with softer mouth tissue.

Tom

so i have one question.  I do sharpen my own hooks.  what about needle points like the KVD need points tg78-np-nb.  so i’ve an actually stopped buying the needle points and started just using the regular BN version.  if we sharpen a needle point when it needs to be sharpened wouldn’t we be wiping out the needle point ? turning it basically into a regular triple grip BN hook?  i guess the same question for chemically sharpened hooks.  i guess are we better just to swap these hooks out rather than sharpening them since we are paying a premium for needle points or chemically sharpened hooks 

 

i have had a round bend worm hook be dull out of the package and it did cost me fish. 

I sharpen my treble hooks and it works really well.  Swapping hooks every time one gets a little dull gets a little expensive.  There is of course a point of no return.  But it takes a while for hooks to get filed down that much.  I usually lose the bait first. YMMV

Prior to a days fishing, I'll sharpen single hooks. I've found that even new, right out of the package they aren't sharp enough for my liking. I use a Razor's Edge turret style sharpener that has been discontinued. It takes some time but they sharpen better than any other I've tried.

 

This isn't the safest way to test hook sharpness but it demonstrates how wickedly sharp they become. I'll use a short leader with a weight (pictured is a hemostat) and hang it on my near vertical thumbnail. Almost all new hooks won't "dig" like this.

 

 

The point gets flattened sticking hard surfaces like rocks. All that is needed is diamond hone to the flattened point to restore the sharpe point. Removing plated metal behind the point weakens the hook.

Tom 

That Luhr - Jensen hook file that @Captain Phil pictured is what I use, and it works great. You can pick one up for under $20 and it'll last for many years. Just give it a shot of WD-40 or a similar light oil now and then to keep it from rusting.

 

I keep a smallish diamond hone in my boat.   I'm constantly checking my hooks.  A couple years ago I had a batch of Rapala DT's and OG's that had hooks about as sharp as a ball point pen.  I stumbled across some Owner hooks that are slightly heavier than the factory hooks.  They make the lures suspend perfectly.   Since then I occasionally mess with the hooks and split rings on cranks to alter the action some.  It may just be a confidence thing but I believe this helps with popular lures in pressured waters.  

The manufacturer made have designed the "perfect" action, but when Bass have seen it a million times I think actions that's "less than perfect" may be just right.   

Unless it's a spinnerbait, chatterbait, or jig, it get tossed. On those 3 I'll sharpen them maybe twice & then retire em.

The rep;ys have convinced to check all new & old hook points on the dividers of the Plano tackle box. Not my old finger nails.  Will buy a  a head mounted magnifier and light to do all the hooks at a time.

I like to eat out all my spare money. Not buy hooks. 

 

Sharpest hooks and tight lines.      😀