Do you winterize your outboard yourself or do you pay to have it done. this is the first season I've had the boat it has a 60hp Merc on it and was quoted $100 which doesn't seem to bad, not sure what it would cost for the materials to winterize it if I had to purchase everything.

Many folks tackle routine work on their own and do an impressive job. 

Always feel better about my chances of having it start in the spring and continuing to run like a top

by utilizing the skills, experience & expertise of a professional to handle the maintenance.

A-Jay

 

It depends on what they will do for that $100.  The minimum is change the lower unit fluid as well as the washers behind the screws.  Some fog the engine.

 

Where I live we fish year round so mine doesn’t have to be winterized.  I used to do my own service work until I bought a 4 stroke.  No I hire it done.

 

How will the motor be stored?

On the boat undercover in the driveway, live in New Jersey so it Will definitely be below freezing.

Be sure to trim the motor down to keep rain water from getting into the housing freezing and busting it.  Or cover it good to keep water out.

I have mine professionally winterized by the dealer every October. Just made an appt for it the other day, in fact. They give me a discount because I bought it there.

 

Last year I paid 240 bucks. I don’t have the receipt in front of me from last year but they conduct preventative maintenance on my 75 hp 4-stroke Mercury, inspect the trailer, and grease the bearings. If they find minor items like a dead bulb they replace it. If they find something more serious, they call me.

 

We have this thing called winter here and although my boat is stored in the garage, I feel confident that my outboard is going to fire up next spring as it should. This winterization process I pay for hasn’t failed me yet.

I do all the maintenance myself. Owner's manual makes it pretty straight forward. 

 

Every year:  engine oil & filter, spark plugs, fog the cylinders, fuel stabilizer for winter (boat spends winter in unheated shop)

Every other year: replace lower unit lubricant, fuel filter, pull wheels/hubs, clean bearings and re-pack. 

 

Replaced my trailer tires this year...I believe they were 5 years old. 

 

Also had to replace bolts in the swing away trailer tongue. Went with grade 8 bolts, just to be safe. 

 

First year I left the batteries in and on-board charger plugged in all winter. No issues. Last year I pulled all the batteries and stored in my attached garage (never gets below 40 degrees), and did have them on battery tenders all winter. Again, no issues. ATV's and John Deere all have battery tenders 24/7/365. They do well. 

 

I get most of my maintenance supplies via Amazon. 

 

 

 

I prefer doing my own maintenance on the boat.

Always keep all parts and additives on hand just for that cold dreary winter day, gives me something to do.

 

On 8/20/2025 at 9:24 AM, A-Jay said:

Many folks tackle routine work on their own and do an impressive job. 

Always feel better about my chances of having it start in the spring and continuing to run like a top

by utilizing the skills, experience & expertise of a professional to handle the maintenance.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Also, $100 is a very good price. Where I live the going price is about 2x that much. 

For $100 they will

It would be running the engine on winterizing fuel mix, adding stabilizer to the gas, gear lube change, and fogging the engine.

I winterize my boat by putting an extra sweatshirt in the glovebox.

 

Seriously though, for you who have a real winter, it’s cheap insurance to do it right.

One more quick question, I don't plan on using the outboard for the remainder of the year just going to fish electric only lakes is there anything stopping me from winterizing it now.

Thank you

Nope there isn’t.  Just be sure to drain everything when you come out of the water and make sure the lower unit has drained well.

48 minutes ago, bigbearstroop122 said:

is there anything stopping me from winterizing it now

No.  As someone else said, and it's the same here, it's over $200 for the shop to do it.  They don't change plugs for that price, but change lower unit, engine oil, fuel filter I believe, oil filter, treat the gas.  Not sure if they fog it.  I've heard it's not necessary on 4 strokes.  I've not fogged mine and it is 8 years in and still runs like new.  One thing a [pro recommended was to put the engine vertical, shut off the ignition by using the kill switch, and crank it for just a couple seconds to purge the water pump.  Not sure it's necessary, but doesn't hurt. 

My boat is getting winterized in a week.  I take it to the dealer I bought it from because they give me a discount and get it done in a timely manner.

 

Last year I paid 240 bucks for it.  I will relay exactly what they do when they perform the maintenance on it because I get an itemized receipt.

 

I don't use my boat during the winter.  It sits in my insulated garage until next spring.

 

I am fine paying this fee as it prevents more serious problems in the future.  I am not up to doing it myself either.  Always use ethanol-free gasoline.

I purchased the boat April of this year and never ran the motor, the dealer hooked it up to water and turned it over so I’m assuming it should be winterized. A shop close by quoted me a $100 for running the engine on winterizing fuel mix, adding stabilizer to the gas, gear lube change, and fogging the engine. For a $100 I think it’s worth it just for piece of mind.

Thanks for all of the replies I really appreciate it.

I recently picked up my winterized boat from the dealer I bought it from.  Here is what they do:

Clean/lube prop shaft

Stabilize fuel (I only use non-ethanol gas, so I'm not sure if this is necessary)

Change lower unit gear oil and replace plug gaskets

Change engine oil and replace filter

Fog engine

Remove main prop and any debris

Greased zerks on the trailer

 

Additionally, they also check all of these items and address if there's any issues

Load test all 3 batteries

Clean terminals

Check all fuses

Check hydraulic fluids

Check trailer tires (tread, air pressure, valves)

Check electrical trailer connection and all bulbs

Remove all water from the system (live well, bilge)

 

I did not have any issues with the "additional" list so there was nothing to address there.  I was charged $275 for this.  Last year I paid $240 so the price has gone up (not surprising).

^^ Good list! ^^

 

There's only 3 things I would add:

1. Change the water pump impeller and housing every 2 years

2. Check the brake pads for wear

3. Grease the engine zerks

What’s this lower unit you guys speak of? 😂

^ Well, if you don't have one, your boat must not go very fast. 😁

@MN Fisher low 30mph isn’t fast but, jet drives do not have lower units 😂

2 hours ago, Susky River Rat said:

@MN Fisher low 30mph isn’t fast but, jet drives do not have lower units 😂

You must be able to get in some serious skinny water

3 hours ago, Susky River Rat said:

low 30mph isn’t fast

 

That's actually faster than I would have expected.  My boat goes about 35.

It really depends on your budget if money is not a problem why bother, if money is tight then get to it. Its really not difficult if you have basic understanding mechanical work. 

I pay for mine as a package for winterize, shrink wrap and storage. back when I lived where it was used all seasons I did same work myself once or twice per year at a fraction of what I pay now. 

 

I don't necessarily think it's a matter of finances here; if you can afford a boat, you can afford to maintain it.  275 bucks is pretty cheap preventative maintenance given the overall price I paid for the boat itself.

 

Some people enjoy doing it themselves, I get that.  They have more will power and time to tackle it on their own.  Almost like a side hobby.

 

I look at it like buying a sports or luxury car.  You aren't going to drop 100 grand on a vehicle and then complain about tune ups or insurance.  That's a non-starter.