Looking into my line up and considering what reels hold what lines to maximize how I'm setting them up I can't make this make sense

The tatula 100 says 100 yards of 16# mono or 100 yards of 40# braid, going by Daiwa jbraid 40# braid is 10#mono equivalent.

So how does the spool hold 100 yards of 16# mono and only 100 yards of 10# mono equivalent? Thus doesn't make any sense

Same for the tatula Elite

Here is Jbraid published dia

The truth/accuracy is an extra charge. You didn't click the box, did ya.😁

Daiwa, especially, under-rates their spool capacity. They always show a range in capacity for the spool, and typically, the higher number is 80% full.

e.g., 1000S (SV Boost PE Special) spool, they rate it for 90 m PE#0.6, and it will hold 100m of #1.5.

27 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

they rate it for 90 m PE#0.6, and it will hold 100m of #1.5.

Wow quite a significant difference

Good to know

Crazy how even what they publish is in conflict with itself, nevermind generally under rating their capacity

Are there any reliable accurate line counters out there?

Football field and a stick. Tie your line to it. Walk to the other goal line. Reel in. That's about as accurate as it gets unfortunately.

hmmm

Besides, last time I cast this, a football field was 30 m too short.

Not sure what is going on but just doing a search on Tackle Warehouse for 16lb mono and 40lb J-braid and they are both the same diameter. Both are 0.32mm. Granted there are different diameters listed for all sorts of mono but just checked one I knew was in 16lb.

Also, I never trust the listed line capacity on the box. Its just sort of a guide line.

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Sunline_Super_Natural_Monofilament_330yd/descpage-SLSNM.html

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Daiwa_J-Braid_x8_Braided_Line_Chartreuse/descpage-BJC.html

When you're looking at the capacity stated on the reel, you also have to consider if they rated it with JDM mono or US mono. JDM reels will almost certainly use the JDM mono like sunline or similar.

And braid is never the breaking strength stated. So saying that a reel is rated for 40 lb braid, it depends on the type of braid (4/8/9/13 carrier) and how the company rates it. If they list a diameter, treat it with a grain of salt because most braid isn't consistent.

The easiest way to get it right is to start with an empty spool and start winding on the braid until you get enough. Then tie on your backing and fill the reel. Now either reel it onto 2 other spools that are empty or go cast it in the yard and spool it. Walk to the backing, tie it on, and crank it up.

I don’t pay any attention to what the reel line and capacity is. I just decide what line I want to use and fill the spool to the level I want.

Never trust the advertised reel capacity, or braid diameter numbers. Saltwater reels are the worst. Usually the line capacity numbers for mono are close to accurate, but the braid estimates can be way off. I have reels that the manufacturer claims can hold 800 yards of 130 pound braid, and have filled them to the very top with only 600 yards of 130 pound braid. The braid is the same brand as the reel, and the one they reference, so difference in brand is not in question. I have found that most braid is only a little over twice as thin as mono, not 4 times which most brands claim. If a reel holds 100 yards of 50 pound mono, it will hold 110 yards of 100 pound braid. The actual diameter of braid is very difficult to measure and the line companies don't mind stretching the truth if it will sell more line.

I understand this. It’s the engineering details that many of us enjoy. Ultimately I’d just spool it up and fish it.. I wouldn’t get too riled up over an erroneous spec sheet. If you really want a reel (Daiwa) for large diameter FC or Braided line get you a Tatula Coastal 200. It’s practically a Zillion HD with a massive spool that is 1000% better casting than anything Shimano makes. I’ve used the Tranx 300 & 500. The Daiwa is just a better caster..

Guess I don't get the grievance. My small-frame trolling lever drag on kingfish rod wasn't rated for line capacity, but I searched-up a youtube with the result "350 yds 40-lb braid"

I spooled it with 400 yds 40-lb braid, and still had room for 75' of 35-lb fluoro leader.

Why no rating? - Seigler is smart enough to stay out of the quagmire

I've found sticking to JAFTMA-spec X-braid on aftermarket spools made for threadline braid, I get very accurate results from Pattaya line calculator for stacking lines, and always have a little room to spare.

But even when I was fishing deep spools and fluoro, never worried about it - just filled the spool.

Why does Daiwa rate their reels with J-braid? To sell J-braid.

If you want something to gripe about, compare fly line grain weights to AFTMA fly line specs.

In the '80s and '90s when Ted Leeson reviews in FR&R lauded Fast rods, fly rod makers began under-rating their rods, e.g., a 7-wt is really an 8-1/2-wt to get good reviews in the rag. When no one could load their fast fly rods any more, line makers began under-rating their fly lines the same. It's worse now with the new silly marketing names given to fly line tapers. Even worse when you consider how much of $120 fly line price is going to fund the marketing dept.

If you think about it, high tech and fly fishing don't really go together.

@bulldog1935 and thus the comment cents measurement system was born. Rod builders recognized exactly what you describled on fly rods and Bill Hanneman came up with a way to fix it. If only all manufacturers would measure their rods and publish the results.

Looks like you got their new hyper line spool capacity feature.

It's not important until it is. And, for me, these days on some reels it's very important for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I appreciate quality line in some cases and that stuff can be costly, and secondly, I don't care to fiddle around with backing if I don't have to. I also don't want to have too much or too little line for the job. Extra line adds weight and sometimes that alters the performance. I also don't want to see bare spool when my bait hits the water.

I found Daiwa to be all over the map with spool capacities. It's almost like their marketing department just puts blindfolds on monkeys and has them throw darts at random numbers on a wall and they just go with that.

I have an idea:

Have a standardized method that you publish.

Publish a table that states diameter of what they consider to be the diameter of a given line size or just use diameter and let people apply the size of the line of choice based on it's diameter.

Measure it with lasers if you must, or some other consistent method.

Make the sizes relevant to the intended usage of the reel.

Agree with everything said. Also I would like to add that I put the line from my tatula 100(rated 14/120) onto my curado 150(rated 12/110) and they were around the same amount full.

Spooling 10# J-Fluoro on a TD ito 103M for use on a cranking rod. TT listed 12/120, jdmfishing listed 12/90 (just under 100 yds.) while JDM Tackle Heaven listed 12/110. It's a tapered spool but I think it will hold more than 12/90. I plan on putting cheap mono backing first but it sure would be nice if any of you knew it's true capacity. Otherwise, I'll just have to go by eye with the backing. Thanks.

8 hours ago, new2BC4bass said:

Otherwise, I'll just have to go by eye with the backing. Thanks.

How I work it is to put a measured amount (65-75yds) of my mainline on, fill with backing, then reverse it all....then I got a set amount of mainline and the backing is never replaced after that.

@new2BC4bass stacking braid over heavy mono (not fluoro) backing works well - always worked for me on Lew's, with no shallow spool options.

If you plug into Pattaya calculator link above, you'll get about 20 yds 20-lb backing, and 100 yds braid.

Easiest way to load is tie braid to backing w/ allbright knot, and spool backing onto braid source spool, then load both on the reel together. Two yds is easy to measure, it's a wing to wing stretch.

Another option for TD is swap-in a shallow MagZ spool, here's 1012.

Yes I have seen the same inconsistencies as well. If I ever have a question if a reel can hold enough of a certain line type and it's getting close to being not enough, I have to find the rated diameter of what they call say 16# mono in this case. Usually it's on the box or reel manual.

What most reel manufacturers call 16# mono is really some of the thinnest 16# fluorocarbon on the market (not even fluorocarbon from the same brand). So you probably will be able to get at least 70 yards of 15# mono on the reel and be okay, but 17# might be pushing it.

On 3/13/2026 at 11:19 AM, Brycecover said:

Agree with everything said. Also I would like to add that I put the line from my tatula 100(rated 14/120) onto my curado 150(rated 12/110) and they were around the same amount full.

Shimano actually has some of the more realistic diameters, at least on some of their reels.