flechero

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give them a call and see what options I have.

I don't know anything about Phenix blanks... but they are in a very competitive price range. Lots of great blanks are in that range. On the other hand, if you do buy one (or some) be sure to give us detailed reviews of them.

Something is obviously wrong... have you read through the sticky called "Senko FAQ's" ?

And a lot cheaper!

I tried contacting Dennis Radziewicz (Reel Em In) but not getting any response via email or phone. Anyone used him lately or are there any other JDM serivce shops around? Thanks

One glaring difference is line capacity. If you don't use light mono or braid, your list is down to 1 domestic model. If you use braid or light mono, the list is 3... depending on what you want to do with it or out of it, should help you decide.

Yea Care!!!!!!! What, you don't expect to service his 20+ year old Abu?

That won't work... you need to cut it off just beyond the damaged place (and any split) and install a new tip top. When cutting the blank, put a wrap of masking tape around it and use a dremel cutting wheel... don't cut all the way through at one spot, go around the blank with the dremel, taking a little bit off all the way around. That helps to keep the blank from splitting further down. Wal-mart and Academy carry an emergency replacement kit with 3 sizes of tips and the hot melt glue.

Did you try any other options weightless like the senko? More often than not, the effectiveness of the senko is that it doesn't sink like a rock. (like a t-rigged bait) Plus, that little shimmer it does as it slowly sinks past a fish is seductively appetizing.

I also have 2 of the reconditioned units... although 1 was a warranty replacement of a "new" charger that came in my boat (painless procedure). I've been using the older one since about 1996. Still works as good as new. I have heard that the newer technology is better for the batteries... but my current trolling motor batts are 4 years old and still running well. Based on things I have read here, I think I'd lean towards ProMariner if I have to buy another unit.

You can buy a lot of lead tape for $80. :

Depends on the joint or ferrule. If properly built, the ferrule should be stronger then the rod sections. if not assembled correctly, that can happen. I'm amazed at how many say this happens... in over 20 years (as an adult) with 2, 3 or 4 piece rods, I haven't had a single tip section cast off.

1. open wallet, look inside. If you have the cash, you passed the test. ;D Sorry, I had to. back on topic... Everyone's methods will be different and probably a lot to type out. What are you looking for and maybe we can better help you with some specific recommendations and info. in general, bring your reel with you and see if you like the feel of them together. I can't tell you how to tell if you'll like the rod, it's not a science... I can pick one up and flex it at a few different places and tell you if I'll like it and what I'll like it for... but that came from many years of trial and error. As for sensitivity, I used to pick a smooth surface, and slowly & with very light pressure rub to tip top across it and see what I feel. The smoother the surface the better to compare multiple rods. Linoleum tile or glass works well most times. A rough surface or the old throat trick aren't any help because a broom stick will transmit that kind of vibration.

It's always a good feeling when you get a new toy! dockmaster- you are kidding, right?

This thread is about like a C & R thread. ...lol Just like off the water- those who can go out to dinner and have a beer or two responsibly can probably do the same on the water. It's like anything else, if you observe the law and use a little common sense, it's very easy to do. Those who go out and get hammered and drink irresponsibly, often do the same on the water. Operating a boat is no more or less dangerous than a car when drinking. If you act responsibly, there is nothing to argue about. For some, that means no drinking and for others a beer or two is not a problem.

Where to start?!?!?!? She's betting large that there will be no witnesses or bystanders or cameras in the area... not to mention, I think a gun with no numbers is a no-no on the streets, should she ever get stopped or checked. And did you load the mag with gloves on since your brass will be in the bag that you toss? Also, have you test fired a mag's worth in the velvet bag to be sure it's fully functional that way. Sounds like a great way to turn a justifiable self-defense incident into a vigilante style killing and a prison term. I'm thinking that a jury would see the "printless planned toss" as something that was premeditated, not a "legal convenience." I can only hope she never has to do this.

Please don't get her a Kel-tec. If she's shy of recoil, as you stated, that's a mistake... unless you need another option for pocket carry, since she won't like it. ...lol I know you don't like revolvers but they can be very practical for CC. Especially for someone who won't clean a gun religiously and practice enough to be able to clear a failure in a stress situation. As for capacity, in the smaller carry weapons, you typically only lose 1-2 shots by going with a wheelgun. Lint, dirt and neglect will not normally cause a stoppage. 5 or 6 shots from a .38 will beat 1-2 shots from a 9mm (or any other caliber) that jams up. I almost hate to admit this but I now carry a small revolver over my Kimbers and other "nice" weapons... because they are more comfortable to carry and easier to conceal. I have one on me 6-7 days a week. When I was dedicated to the other options, I was unable to carry everyday and since I can't know or plan on when I will need it, having something with me all the time is the smartest option for me. CC weapons are a very personal decision, and no 2 people will have the same needs and comforts.

Congrats! I still remember my first bass hooked on a worm, as if it were yesterday... it was on a purple Mann's "firetail" worm.

When I went to o-rings (I use 2 in an "X" on the bait to keep the hook turned) I went from 1-1.5 fish per bait average, up to 5-8 fish average and have had a few last over 10 fish. When I use *** with o-rings, I usually lose them when I snag in the rocks, not because of a bait tear.

Man, if he would have gone with an *** ***, he'd of saved about 25% on the tat!

the difference between an overhead and a sidearm cast is only 90 degrees. If you can cast fine sidearm, (a cast off to the left or right would be the same as a lob or driving one into the water short) you can do the same overhead. Don't over think it.

Brent, no need for a ticket (even though 1 way is appealing sometimes!) I couldn't bring the boat... instead, how about a tank of gas towards a run to Falcon? I'll email them next week, I'm visiting my folks in "Big D" this weekend. Bigtimfish, Belton is a neat lake, having SMB, LMB & spots- but it's actually best know for hybrids. There is some good smallie fishing, though!

The line doesn't contact the tip top tube in the way you think... I've never seen a tip top cause what you describe. But, I guess there could always be a first. If you want to "prove" it out first, take a little piece of scotch tape and wrap it around the tube & 1/8" or so of blank so it covers the "edge" and if your problem stops, then you can worry with coating it. I'd be looking over ReelMech's suggestions again though. Once you prove it, the finish can be ordered at a number of places, or if you have an Academy sports they carry it.

Someone posted a pic a while back of a bass they caught with a big crankbait still in the mouth. Obviously that fish was still feeding, or at least trying to feed. You would be surprised at how well a fish can remove a bait from it's mouth give some time and slack. Some will die but I think the vast majority will throw the bait.