iabass8

Take it to a minnkota repair shop for warranty. Could be first signs of frozen foot pedal

If you are using their replacement/upgrade program as part of the warranty, Dobyns will ship you the replacement same day. You will be charged for the rod in full and given X amount of time to send in the old rod. Once they receive the old rod, they will credit you back the full price of the rod minus the warranty cost for the specific series.

practice more

I really like the gen1 orochi xx..specifically the diablo spec r. Awesome blade rod/swim jig rod. Not a fan of the new orochi or levante. The reel seat they use is super uncomfortable.

Tungsten is denser and transmits vibrations and feel far more than lead/brass. Switching to tunsten drastically increases what you feel in the water and what you're dragging through. That's the entire reason about switching to tungsten......and it's smaller. If you're feeling the opposite, you're alone on that one. OP, use a weight with an insert and you'll be fine.

yes, different color baits can and will bleed over time. Keep them separate. Storing them together during a day trip will be fine.

You're probably using Boca Orange seals. They're notoriously loud and, in my opinion, junk. Not all ceramics are loud. If you want a high end ceramic bearing, get some ZPI's while you can from the TackleTrap. Best bearings I've used. Super smooth and very quiet.

threw 1/4oz swim jigs and 3/8 and 1/2 spinnerbaits on a 733 for 5+ years.

AR clutch bearings are pretty universal. I'm traveling at the moment so hopefully DVT can chime in on the exacts or I would. I do know TT sells them and if you call Brian he could tell you which one you need specifically. Generally, handle slippage is almost always related to an AR bearing...mostly. Especially if you use a little too much lubricant + cold weather. If you fall short looking, I have 2-3 spares from old TD-Z's just laying around. Don't do that

Take the AR out and the sleeve it encompasses. Clean them and blow them dry. Dont put a single drop of lube or anything on them. Reinstall and test. Make sure tou have the washer that sits between the sleeve and drag washer and more importantly the washer that sits between the drag clicker and bearing that sits ontop of the AR. The amount of parts that break on a 1016 is ridiculous.

A new adventurous lure always costs me too much money

I've used all the spools except ray's. Don't have a Ballistic anymore (thankfully) but do have a T31016. Have an r+ spool in it at the moment. The only good thing I can say about it is Magforce 3d is an awesome braking system and an r+ spool in these reels really opens it up. I've repaired more T3 parts since owning them than any reel. Once this one breaks, again, it's turning into a paper weight.

ZPI sic are my favorite.

Zpi while you can still get them. hedgehog air hds

Remove both of the spool bearings. Put them in acetone or lighter fluid and swirl them around and let them sit for 10 minutes. A baby food jar works really well for this. Take them out and put them on a pencil and give them a light spin to check for either fluidity or rough spots. Repeat this process over and over until the bearings are smooth. Your bearings don't need to spin forever. The key is to make sure they start smooth and come to a very smooth, easy stop, not an abrupt stop. If you notice any noise or the bearing is stopping suddenly after test spinning, keep cleaning it. When they are clean, add a very, very small single drop of oil to each bearing. Replace in reel and test. A reel with regular use through the year should have this done annually.

Generally, a “screeching” or “buzzing” sound when casting is related to spool bearings. Yours could either bad or need to be flushed. A single flush is almost never enough, btw.

Buy a Fuego CT. You can find them on ebay for 60$

There isn't an industry standard for rod power. Most rod companies, generally, are different. St. Croix makes the best MLXF blank for a spinning rod.

I've had both on my different boats at different times. My least favorite is the velcro rod straps. They do fine, but the velcro can wear out and the more rods you put under the strap, the less amount of velcro holds your rods. 23 max MPH you probably won't notice the difference though. I really like the TH marine rod tamer straps. They hold rods down better. The retractable are really nice too but your max speed doesn't really warrant anything special that needs to hold rods down that well. All my roads are in the locker when on the road but the few times i've had them on deck /w rod socks...the only time I've lost anything was a rod sock /w with the velcro straps years ago on a different boat.

I had stir fry for dinner.

A fully charged battery doesn't mean it's a good battery. You can charge any battery to full but if it can't be put under load, it's useless. It sounds like you have a weak battery. Load test it.

Good deal. Ill give it a shot.

I use this stuff too in my engine. Great stuff. @A-JayYou put 360 in your truck? Have you found any benefits from doing so? I've always thought about adding something since my truck can sit when I use my company vehicle a lot.

704 is light/no cover 705 for cover

For weightless senkos, the first gen DX743 or the current DXHP 742c. The new HP's are a faster blank. Lots of people like the gen 1 XX EMTF for senkos. The new models have a slower action. Never used the ALX zolo dream.