Columbia Craw

Great information. Some members might not understand or be aware of my history with composite rods. I started with the Fenwick Elite series, the ones with yellow, orange and red tips. These were heavily promoted by Iconnelli. I tried the cranked and spinnerbait versions. That was a bust. Heavy and poor flex transition. When Gary Dobyns designed the 735 and 736 composites the transitions were more progressive while providing an element of power. This was a positive. As mentioned, they are that longer rod. I kind of hoped a shorter model would follow but that didn’t happen. Being open to other options is what lead me to my current hybrids. I’m kind of like Ajay. I know what feels right for me. These models just fill a niche’ so well. Just some thoughts.

We’re getting close in my area to target pre spawn largemouth. I have made a few adjustments to my equipment, specifically the addition of more composite or hybrid rods. Over the past few years these blended models have shown up with the popularity of bladed jigs but most have been in longer derivations, 7-3 or longer. I discovered “hybrid” models in 6-9 and 7-0 and believe this opens the door to additional lure choices. The more moderate actions lend themselves to any treble hook bait, ie. top waters, crankbaits and spinnerbaits. That’s where I’m going apply them. I know a number of you use composites so please share your what and why.

I’m happy to have the glass.

Black blue Green pumpkin Chartreuse Shad Perch

12 feet. I want the knot on the spool when I lip, flip or net the fish.

Nope

I asked AI if there is a measurable benefit in using two ply over single ply.

Scorpian MD

For me, topwater presentations are selected based on many factors. I’m a process guy. What is the water temperature and the clarity? What is the depth and is current in play? What is the light penetration and how broken is the surface? What is the duration from sunrise to sunset? Are there forage options that move on or near the surface? What type of cover is present? Finally, what species, Largemouth or Smallmouth? I put these factors together to get the best starting point possible and then the fish will tell me if I’m close. Bass, like most fish don’t like to be exposed to being prey and being near the surface for any amount of time which makes them more vulnerable. I think that’s why the strikes can be so quick and intense. Is the risk worth the reward? I just go through the process which is much of the fun anyway.

Rods are tools. What do you want to achieve? If it’s casting distance, the maximization of a moderate actions and better line pickup on a hook set, longer has advantages. I don’t subscribe to a 7-6 rod being a problem in accuracy. Just practice more.

Cover Depth Bottom composition Vertical or horizontal presentation

Art by my Dad

It looks like a poop bait with toilet paper dragging behind.

Much of it has to do with the weight of the bait. A DT12 isn’t that heavy. My deep cranking rods are both 7-6 with a Dobyns Champion 764CB for baits up to 3/4 ounce. I tried the 805CB and the 7-6 Alpha Anglers Mag Rebound, a glass rod and settled on the Mag Rebound. My heaviest bait is 1-1/4 ounces. You can find several rods of similar lengths, powers and actions out there.

Daiwa Luvias

Speed Trap Hot Lips Wiggle Wart Rock Crawler Deep Little N Vision 110 +1 Hula Grub Tube

Look at the diameters. Larger diameter will help keep a lure to run higher and a lure to sink slower.

Some latest greatest is nothing more than a cosmetic make over or adding a name and calling it a pro series. Some are subtle tweaks like adding a bearing or changing the contours. Now that everyone has access to nano resins the playing field is leveling off. It’s not like we just advanced from reels with bushings and plastic spools or rods with straight handles a wire guides. The availability of affordable rods and reels that really perform has never been greater.

Laurenet has them. I saw 8 colors at 7.49 so that’s an option.

My experience with braid goes way back. It didn’t start well. Braided lines were not good initially but over the years the development of new materials and carrier counts has made braid relevant and even advantageous. The same goes for Floro lines. It took awhile to develop trust in braided lines. I’ve found they work really well in certain applications. All of my spinning setups have braid to leader. The castability and reduction in line twist is too good to overlook. Straight braid has an application for fishing really heavy cover so punching/flipping and frogs benefit from no stretch and strength. Cutting vegetation is another positive. Finally, top water lures get braid to leader. Long casting and most importantly no stretch are a real advantage. This system has worked well for me. As stated, knot failure is at the lure and not the connector knot. That’s it.

Largemouth: Fogy with Spunk Shad Smallmouth: Hula Grub

Cotton Cordell Big O.

There a couple of features I like in my dropshot reels. First is a larger spool. This aids in castability, reduced line twist and a larger drag washer surface. You can however get a 3000 size spool in a compact body. Any of the 3000 Daiwa LT models are an example. A smooth drag is a must. Light weight is another factor. A faster ratio helps in getting line in quickly for the next cast. Finally, a braid friendly spool. Happy shopping.

Interesting topic. My selection is based on the potential of finding the series/brand on sale. Daiwa Aird at around 50 bucks. Dobyns Maverick in both spinning and casting at around 75 bucks. The Dicks SG Frenzy made by Dobyns at 79 bucks. The Sportsman’s WH Dobyns at 90 bucks on sale. These are all great rods at their respective price points. The Edge Delta series at 100-108 bucks on sale is a steal. Edge has added two satellite finishing locations and wait times should be shortened drastically going forward. Dobyns Kadens are really good rods at 180 but can be had for 154 bucks on sale. The Daiwa Tatula XT is another great option. That tops it out.

Zillion