Dirtyeggroll

If by configured you mean graphs and trolling motors, and if by getting the bare bones version it fits within your budget, then get that. You can always add that stuff later. Especially for a family boat it will ride much smoother. If that’s not the case then it’s really a toss up between Lund and Alumacraft. Venus hasn’t been around long enough to know.

If you want to g2n Helix 9 you better hurry because they are disappearing quick. Unfortunately, it seems the 1100 series humminbirds pick up a pretty penny used. If I had a $1500 budget I would be perplexed between buying a whole USED setup for the bow and console or getting one unit NEW with a warranty. The other forum thats primarily about bass boats (if you don't know it PM me) has some pretty good finds in their classifieds section and units tend to show up on Facebook Marketplace. If you just want total boat functionality I think you could get a couple 999 and/or 1199 for about that budget and maybe even come in a bit under. The downside is that you would not have MEGA imaging. I'll tell you though, MEGA imaging really isnt a game changer in my opinion and I have all MEGA+ graphs coming from not having MEGA at all. If I see a change on the graph it essentially becomes a casting target. Don't get me wrong its cool to see all the branches of a tree and all the rocks in a pile but it hasn't changed my fishing style. The idea you have to get a Helix 9 G2N is not a bad idea either... You might be able to scoop up one plus an 1199 or a 999. Alternatively, I have seen some of the Helix 9 G3N on sale for ~$1275... Could get one and sell your other units to get a 899 or 999. Lots of options out there. You are on the right track making sure to a networkable unit though. Good luck and keep us updated.

I have the same rod paired with a Tatula SV and I have developed a ton of confidence and skill using it to skip. I feel that the tip is a bit softer than other Heavy/fast rods I own. It’s great for loading up to skip a bait and the shorter length allows me to attempt acrobatic casts without hitting as many things with the rod. The backbone is beefy on the rod which makes it easy to horse fish out of cover. The only downside I find with the softer tip is that I really have to make sure I drive my hookset through the tip and into the backbone of the rod. I lost a handful of fish on my first couple outings with the rod due to what I attribute to not getting a good hook on them. I have since conditioned myself to pull the hookset through the backbone and haven’t had any issues. I also use the rod as my primary jig rod (for offshore fishing) due to its top notch sensitivity. The length and blank of the rod however are not ideal for long casts. So, to answer your question, I find a shorter rod with a little give in the tip and a solid backbone to be optimal for skipping.

Those KaRu vibrating jigs used to be the ticket. A football head with the coffin blade put off quite the vibration. I noticed he no longer uses the coffin blade, I would guess likely due to Z-man hunting him down.

In Keith Jones’ book he reports that a two-tone black and white bait out performed the solid color cranks. Im in the club of thinking color combo and pattern might matter but details probably not so much.

For the first 15 years of my life, I was certain that throwing a spinnerbait on a rod with an "open face" (spinning reel), was the pinnacle of bass fishing. I had occasionally seen my dad throw a "jig and pig" in the cooler months, but never saw him catch a fish with it. Ironically, I caught a ton of fish growing up throwing a spinnerbait and I probably haven't made 10 casts with one in the last 5 years...

I have listened to probably hundreds of hours of medical school lectures while fishing. ?

White, black, earth tones, red in the spring. I don’t do a lot of chartreuse in clear water, but I also don’t have the opportunity to fish a lot of clear water.

Spro Rat

Put an outboard on it. You really don’t need much in the way of modifications for that boat. It comes as a pretty complete setup. I had a Basshound 10.2 which a similar smaller version of that boat and put a casting deck and outboard on it and fished it all over the place. Since yours already has the casting platforms, the outboard is all you need.

The Ranger “R” series is a great hull that can be found in that price range.

In general I find that heavier baits are easier to control. Spool tension does need to be somewhat loose. A trick to keep backlash down can be to pitch a heavy bait as far as you can, then pull a little more line off of the spool, then place some electrical tape on the spool to keep the rest of the line under control. Good luck.

I like braid. I want the line to float (typically braid or mono) and I need something that I can go up on the strength because I am usually throwing a toad into or around the nasty stuff.

I actually wasn't referring to the monetary price of the GY Senko. I was referring to the trade off of lack of durability for the type of action the bait produces. Albeit, in comparison to similar looking stick baits, they demand more money.

How many fish are you catching? Are talking true Gary Yamamoto Senkos or some other more durable version? I am happy if a GY Senko lasts more than 1 fish. They are brittle and its a price that is paid for the action they have.

Aee you certain there are fish in the areas you are using your swimbaits? Are they high percentage areas?

Can you identify where all of the wires at the fuse box go?

Was on a guide trip in San Diego on Canyon Lake. The guide was a cool guy and I had told him my primary goal was to catch a big fish. We had fished all day and the biggest we had caught was just over 3. He kept saying throughout the day that the best chance to catch a big one was to go night fishing. Being such a standup guy, he offered to keep the trip going after a dinner break. The strategy was to chuck weightless black senkos at the "seawall" of the lake near the docks. Its very dark so its difficult to see where the bait is going. It had been about an hour and we had caught one fish about 2.5 lbs doing this. I make a cast and as I start to drag the senko, I feel a subtle tug back. I set the hook and start feeling the head shakes. BIG STRONG HEADSHAKES. I start getting really excited as I start to fight this behemoth, telling the guide that we did it, saying "this is the one". I'm fighting this thing for a solid 2 minutes slowly making progress, when suddenly then boat bumps into the edge of the dock. It spooked me so I released the tension on my line and the line goes slack. At first I was devastated because I thought the fish had come unhooked. I reel up the slack to find that something is still on the other end. It still feels like it pulls back, but is definitely not swimming... turned out to be a dock cable and my progress was me slowing pulling the boat toward he. The guide and I had a good laugh about it. Never ended up finding one over 4lbs in CA.

A 2 HP isn’t gonna give much more up and go. Might save your battery for your trolling motor but probably not going to gain much at all for speed. I’d look into at least 5 HP. The old Evinrude Fisherman 5.5 and 10 HP motors go for pretty cheap and are solid as a rock as long as you know you to clean and maintain a carb.

I have never caught a fish on a fluke and can count the number of times on one hand that I have tossed one out. That being said, I commonly rip a weightless senko around like a fluke and have good success.

I use the Z-man power finesse heads with a wire weed guard. Never had a fish come off, but then again I havent caught mroe than a couple dozen fish on a ned rig. Also, I think the purists would argue that the power finesse heads are too heavy.

I fish most of the time without a leader using 10-lb hi-vis yellow braid on my spinning setups. I have caught a lot of fish on senkos, a ring fry, neko rigs, finesse jigs and dropshots using this setup. One problem I have encountered is that if I get snagged, the line doesn't tend to break at the knot by the hook but somewhere high up the line leaving a long tail of braid in the water. I never use a leader on a casting setup.

Find out where the wood exists on the boat. As previously stated those are the areas to be most susceptible to time. Transom, deck floor, stringers are generally the biggest offenders. Also, any areas where the gel coat is missing and the fiberglass matting is showing. Otherwise, a well taken care of hull should last a long time. The motor and fuel delivery system are the parts of the boat that are likely least resistant to time.

Cover water and distance on high percentage areas with the frog then move in with the punching rig.

Loving the detailed posts lately! Thanks for a great description and commentary!