Lead Head

Just out of curiosity, did it ever get really hot? I've dealt with a lot of them and the only one I've seen peel so far was when I tried to heat and remove it. Also does it see heavy use, and what do you use to clean it (if you have). I'm just trying to gather information because when they first came out many people were afraid of this.

My experience has been the opposite. My MB reels out cast everything else I own (pro qualifier, Daiwa, older shimano, and a bb1). I can dump over half the spool with 50lb 832 and a pad crasher on my frog rod.

I have 4 rods that have never known some type of double duty. Heavy jig/pitching rod, frog rod, 3/8-1/2oz jig rod, and a ned rod. The first 2 are not always on the deck, the second 2 are. Everything else gets used for something other than its original purpose, but rarely. I built a NFC x-ray neo early this year that has only ever thrown a swim jig. I absolutely love the feel of this blank and will definitely use it for other techniques at some point because I suspect it is the most versatile rod I own. After I have a feel for it with jigs, cranks, frogs etc... it will likely settle in as a swim jig only rod.

Wrap line around my pliers and pull until something gives.

I would guess it will work great. I use sniper for leader material often and it does a fine job. Shooter being a bit tougher should work even better. While I haven't used a ton of Shooter, ill bet you get adequate stretch from it unless your rod is super stiff/fast. If you really want stretch, skip floro and its questionable knot strength and grab some 15lb Big Game.

Your almost certainly going to be better off buying new rods. The labor involved in stripping a rod to bare components without damaging anything is massive (and impossible in most cases). By the time you pay someone to strip your rods, purchase new blanks, then pay to build the new rods... the cost will almost definitely be more than new rods. Your best bet is to sell your old rods and put the money into custom X-ray builds, or purchase more from Edge.

I would definitely replace a guide with a missing insert. Look for a local rod builder if you don't want to mess with it. It should be pretty cheap to replace a guide.

I have done quite well with 40 and 50lb 832 to a 25lb sniper leader when pitching.

I've said it before and I'll say it again... If you can't get along with Invisx or Sunline Sniper, fluorocarbon probably isn't for you. Either way MN Fisher is 100% correct about the KVD line and lure conditioner, it absolutely makes a noticeable difference in line manageability (in my experience).

@Boomstick I put my index finger UNDER the line directly in front of the reel. This inevitably pushes the line up and out of the T-wing line guide and causes all kinds of problems. I'll try and get a picture. This is how I learned to fish t-rigs and jigs. I feel like this let's me detect subtle strikes better, and I know it does on semi-slack and tight lines. Hasn't happened in a few years (I guess I subconsciously adjusted), but I have cut my finger on the hookset with braid, and burned it with FC/Mono. I have confidence in this method and have no plans to ever change it. Its just... my way.

As mentioned above, those 2 bearings are in the handle knobs. If you ever like to put a finger under your line (how I fish all bottom contact presentations) that T-wing is a big negative, it seems ok otherwise. Even if it didn't interfere with my fishing I wouldn't pay extra just for it. For me, there isn't nearly enough benefit to justify the extra moving parts that need to be cleaned and have the potential to wear.

About that Gt knot video... Most likely the video you saw is a simplified version of the GT, NOT the one that tested out the strongest. Read the comments under the video to find out for sure. A true GT is pretty complex and mostly used in the salt. Having said that, I have been using the simplified version from the video for 2 years now without a failure. It has held up to big hooksets with FC and is super fast and easy to tie. I'll continue to use it until it gives me a reason to stop.

In my opinion... The $200-$250 mark is right where you can really build better than you get off the shelf. I have several NFC x-ray and Rainshadow immortal builds that cost me right at, or just over $200 to build. It would be difficult to buy off the shelf rods that perform at the same level for $200. It would be impossible to find a off the shelf rod that has my preferred grip type, grip length, and color scheme. You absolutely can build great rods for less, but you are getting into a area where the rods are great because they fit your personal preferences, not necessarily because they out perform off the shelf stuff. This is all just my opinion so far. I'm not a professional and have only been building rods for about 3 years now (around 20 rods).

I have found that overall, I prefer what most people would consider a moderate-fast taper. For pretty much everything.

I've seen BFS and long cast Ray's spools, but not a SV. Maybe there is one and I just haven't ran across it yet. In my experience, SV spools do make skipping easier.

I would have to do some research to figure out the exact model, but... A NIB or mint Steez SV in 7 or 8 speed, and NO T-WING. In a perfect world, I would replace any red or purple trim with silver or black. In all honesty, a SV103 in 7 or 8 speed might very well be my dream reel.

You can absolutely replace a broken guide. It is a bit more complicated than just "gluing" a new one on if you want it done right. I suggest looking for a local rod builder or repair service, the cost for them to replace a single guide will almost certainly be less than your cost to order the components and materials needed (as long as shipping the rod out isn't necessary). Hit up YouTube if you are wanting to explore doing it yourself.

That is really odd. I have no idea what you are feeling flex, but I seriously doubt it is the gears in a tatula SV.

Keep in mind, if you backlash and kink mono, it will still retain much of its strength. If you backlash and kink floro, it will fail at the kink very easily. Without experience, it is VERY difficult to pick out a backlash and not kink your line (often times it is difficult or impossible even when experienced). This is the reason everyone is suggesting you use mono starting out. People who start with floro usually end up very frustrated because of backlashes leading to line failure. This is all assuming the backlash isn't so severe you have to cut all your line out. In my experience, backing is only a must with braid.

A general rule of thumb is- moving baits benefit from more stretch, and bottom contact benefits from less stretch. This is just a basic rule of thumb, it is not always correct. Rod action, cover, and (as mentioned above) personal preference all play a role. Most people feel like more stretch helps prevent ripping a bait away from a feeding bass, and helps keep a hooked bass pinned. Most people feel like less stretch gives more sensitivity, better hooksets, and allows you to "horse" fish away from and over/through cover. Just some basic generalizations, there are exceptions to every rule and personal preference trumps all.

That stuff is indeed slick, and could very easily be "slipping" and not breaking. I would give the uni knot recommend above a shot. It works very well for me.

Weightless white super flukes are usually the ticket for me. Sometimes a heddon spittin image.

I've had 3 too many bad spools of floroclear to ever trust it again. I actually liked the stuff when it wasn't failing on every hookset. Believe it or not, I've had the most success with sunline sniper as leader with big hooksets. After several leader to hook failures on hookset using yozuri hybrid, I switched to sniper (because its what I had on hand) and haven't had any reason to change again. Even when intentionally swinging way too hard it has performed. I'm not as knowledgeable as many when it comes to the physics and properties of line, but for whatever reason sniper held up (for me) when yozuri hybrid didn't for a 6' leader. I can't speak from experience on invisx for leader material, but I would expect it to perform similar to sniper based on the experience I do have with it.

Depending on what its used for, I would recommend 40. I personally don't ever use more than 50, but that's just me. Plenty of people swear by 65, I just never saw the need. I'll snap any rod I own long before 50lb braid fails.

My favorite saying that I picked up somewhere on this forum is "color doesn't matter... until it does".