MN Fisher

Ya - I've got non-ferrous metal-cutting blades for both the table saw and miter-saw, cutting discs for the 7-1/4 circular, 5-1/2" blade for the Ryobi 18v, blades for the saber saw and cutting discs for the angle grinder...I think I could handle just about any aluminum cutting needed - just the expense of aluminum sheet is holding me back.

I occasionally do some from the bank - even get lucky once in a while. Caught from the bank..

Since that comes early this year - maybe Beltane?

You guys are getting our kind of weather - though the snow keeps skipping us...got a dusting last night that didn't even cover all the windshield of the truck.

Nice to see someone still knows how to use a secchi disk, Brian.

Oh I agree 100% - but going with an aluminum deck on Bass Trek would have tripled (at least) my cost...no way I could have afforded it.

Properly treated wood will last a very long time. Doesn't even need to be marine grade. Standard BCX plywood treated with a penetrating sealant will work very well. That's why the deck on Bass Trek is 1/2" BCX plywood with 2 coats of oil-based Spar Urethane before carpet was glued (not nailed) down. I expect it to last longer than my remaining fishing years.

That could be interpreted several ways, my cajun friend.

My 2001 Silverado also has the auto-lock option - but the only time I have it set there is when I'm driving 'mixed' conditions...cleared highway to snow covered side-roads to cleared main roads...I'd be punching the 2-Hi/4-Hi buttons so much I wouldn't be paying enough attention to the road.

I don't think the ovals affect the action much, but I do opinion that the teardrops increase the side-to-side darting of jerks...which is why my jerks get teardrops. Ya - #2 is what I put on my 110-clones.

Pick it apart. I'll settle into a spot that looks promising - then become a 'kitchen sink' guy...tossing anything I can think of that'd possibly work in that structure/cover. Some trips I've spent 2-3 hours casting within a few hundred yards of my initial stopping point.

Was it a snowy owl?

To me - light is the 'tap-tap-tap' of a fish checking out my Ned before deciding to scoop it up.

I don't find any difference in sensitivity between spinning and casting gear. Like Mr. Rutten, I keep a finger on the line as that's your direct contact to the lure.

For weightless (or lightly weighted) wacky and Neds I'd go with the Medium tip on the Twin. Either reel - but I wouldn't go straight braid for either technique For Neds, I run 10# braid to a 6# FC leader - you could use mono For Wacky it's straight 8# FC - again, mono is an option One reel for both techniques - 10#-15# Braid to 8# leader of at least 6' length.

Yes - but being true midwesterners, we'd be polite about it.

He doesn't have a warehouse - he has a place to store his hoard.

One other thing - don't forget those UV coated sunglasses. I spent years not caring and 7 years ago had my right eye removed because of cancer...caused by too much exposure to UV radiation. Now I wear sunglasses anytime I'm outside when it's sunny...can't afford to lose the other eye.

Ya - that one was a Patriarch 7.1 Others I've gotten Patriarch 7.9 - $85 second Patriarch 7.1 - $80 Supreme XT 6.4 - $60

I'm the same way - with Tatula 100s and Mojos being the most numerous. My jig/light-moderate cover pitching rig is a Victory I got used for $140 and a Patriarch I got used for $70 ($400 retail total when new).

Rod over reel - usually There are lower priced rods that have decent sensitivity for certain techniques. I'm still using a $50 Aird-X for spinners and chatters...I can feel the blades moving with that rod, so it's well suited for that.

Looks close to us, Russ

The SS series starts at $10k for the 115hp and goes up from there.

Black Lake is one of the 'hot spots' in the Tonka chain...other day when I passed by it, there was about a dozen pop-ups and a dozen more guys in the open.