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I primarily use 2 types of jigs. The first is a standard 3/8 oz flipping jig and the second is a 1/4 or 5/16 oz finesse jig. Typically I thrown both in green pumpkin or some green/brown variation. I’ve just never had the same production with black/blue but certainly try both. Strike king rage menace and rage claw are pretty bullet proof trailer selections. But you can use pretty much anything and don’t be afraid to be creative. A lot of time instead of upgrading to a heavier jig head in current I will just add a beefier beaver style trailer. Personally I like using the lightest jig head as I can get away with. I always modify my jigs out of the pack by trimming the skirt or thinning it out. I also trim the weed guard so it is about even with the bottom of the hook barb when it’s pressed down. Siebert Outdoors is a board sponsor and has everything you need at a great price. I believe you can even buy a package box from him and he’ll pick out everything you need for a quality starter kit. @Siebert Outdoors

You can also use a split shot about a foot up from bait and use swivel. Kind of a redneck Carolina rig lol Another trick....when weed less Texas rigged, pull down the back of the bait creating almost a boomerang look to the bait. It will make the bait dive at a sharper angle.

Flukes are great. I typically use it weightless on a 4/0 twistlock. Usually I have better success working fairly quick with hard strokes. Ill let it sink and give it 2 rips, pause, 2 rips, pause. 99% of the time they smash it on the pause

I’ve noticed there are two types of trailer riggers in this world. 1. Hook through center of trailer body 2. Hook through top 1/3 of trailer body I used to go through the center of the body but have switched recently. It makes sense to me that having less rubber on the inside of the hook improves hookup ratio. What say you?

The ease of walking a frog has more to do with the rods tip than length. You want a rod with a very strong backbone but flexible couple inches in the tip. A pool cue is useless and might as well be thrown in the trash

I bought a used reel a couple weeks ago that the dude said he’d just serviced. When I took the side plate off there was reel butter everywhere. It took forever to clean it out. Not sure how everyone else lubes theirs but I like very thin layers

I fish a spinnerbait in the top foot of water column and chatterbait in bottom foot. Spinnerbaits are also much better around wood and much more snagproof. You will loose a lot of chatterbaits on wood. I use both around grass but typically opt for a swim jig.

I’m not a pro but it sounds like either the metal anti reverse sleeve is not properly seated in the main gear drag stack or the pinion gear is not installed correct.

I’m no longer ready

The first RI package I remember had a chick on it. So you may not be far off

You can catch them on rip rap and shallow shell beds year round with a squarebill. I have more consistent results with a wake crank in the summer though.

After a lot of trial and error I’ve settled on mostly 6’8”-6’10” rods for moving baits and 7’2-7’3” for worms, jigs, frogs. I do have several outliers but this is my general blueprint.

From what I read Poche did not whine or complain. He owned up to not knowing the rules. It is a kind of strange one though. Of all the FLW and MLF series only the Pro Circuit has a minimum HP requirement. That being said I wouldn’t want to be on the Great Lakes with about that small

Luckily the OP lives in Omaha. And you are absolutely correct that would be the proper solution but assuming that’s not an option a simple $500 gear change can raise his rated towing capacity from 4,200 to 7,200. I haul a Cougar on dual axle trailer with a V6 F150 that has a 7,500 capacity with no issue.

If it were me I’d buy a 20 foot boat and change your truck axle gear ratio to at least 3.55. That alone will raise your tow capacity by 2-3k pounds. The engine itself will tow fine as long as the terrain is fairly flat https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2017_ram_1500_towing_charts.pdf

Taking apart a reel is simple until a C clip rockets to Mars

Shipping rods through USPS is pretty affordable. I’ve paid $12-15 the last few I’ve shipped. Length plus circumference must be less than 108”

If he wins today that would be $520k in 3 FLW events this year I think

Autopilot

Culprit Black Shad has been one of my go to worms for 20 years

Aliens? Who knows. But you better believe the government has way more tech than the average person will ever be privy to. I know an aerospace engineer that works on top secret government contracts. He of course is bound by silence but will tell you with a straight face that you really don’t want to know.

Typically on the top or bottom. Most of the year I want it to be in the top foot of the water column.

I’ve sold all of my St Croix rods. The LTB is a fine stick but I prefer other brands that sell for much less. I’m sure their top of the line Legends are wonderful but we’re talking $400-650. If that’s the price for a great USA made rod then most people are out. The NFC rods I own are also fine. I like my falcons better though. I’ll continue experimenting as I like trying new equipment. Cashion is on my radar

I’ll be buying several assuming they will be in the $250 range. I’ve been really impressed with the Expert line made overseas and won’t hesitate to buy a Chinese Cara too. I find it funny everyone here bashes Falcon for their Chinese rods but rave about Dobyns