Winterization specs

[gim]

I have been asked before on here what I pay for winterizing my boat every fall and it was always at the wrong time of year.  Well I just got my boat back from the service center and here is what I paid, and what they did.  I've been taking it to this location which is about 20 minutes away for 7 years now.  It took them about 8 days to do it.  I have a 2015 Ranger RT178 with a 75 Mercury 4-stroke outboard.

 

Change oil and filter on outboard

Change lower unit gear oil with new plug seals

Fuel stabilizer (I only use ethanol free premium fuel, so I don't think this is really necessary)

Prop shaft cleaned and lubricated

Greased zerks/hubs on trailer if needed

Fog engine and replace spark plugs

Remove all water from system and run antifreeze through water lines

 

Additionally, they also conduct a battery load test on all three of my batteries, check my trailer lights, and adjust tire pressure if necessary.  If I need a new bulb somewhere, they change it.  This time, they told me that one of my fender bulbs was dead and they changed that with a replacement LED.  They also told me that my valve stem on my spare trailer tire was bad, and they took care of that.

 

As of right now, my batteries are still good but I intend to change the 2 deep cycles before next spring as they are 3+ years old now.

 

The total cost was $237.06 for all this.  I receive 10% off because I bought the boat through them.

 

I feel pretty good about the cost I pay for the service I get.  Preventative maintenance is easier than letting things go and then trying to fix it after the problem occurs.  I'm not savvy or knowledgeable enough to do all of this on my own, nor do I have all the tools required either.

 

Sincerely,

Happy boat owner

 

[Bird]

That seems very reasonable for the peace of mind.

[gim]

2 minutes ago, Bird said:

That seems very reasonable for the peace of mind.

 

Its gone up in price, just like anything else.  And the bigger the boat/outboard, the more it costs.

 

Won't stop me from doing it though.  I pay what it costs.

[Siebert Outdoors]

Sounds pretty reasonable.  Luckily I don't have to do that to mine.

[Jig Man]

That is more than reasonable.  I had my Verado oil and filter changed, both of my fuel filters, my lower unit serviced and walked away a bit over $400 poorer.

[DaubsNU1]

@gimruis, looks like a good price for the service you received.

 

I was fortunate to have a Dad who knew a lot about, well, pretty much everything.

 

When I was in high school he was teaching me how to rebuild carburetors, replace clutch, brakes, wheel bearings, etc. A carpenter by trade, he knew home building from foundation to roofing (although we both agreed, dry-wall is something we leave to the professionals). We pulled engines, remodeled kitchens, finished basements, and did lots and lots of maintenance. Dad continues to be a great source of knowledge and wisdom!!

 

I now get to pay him back by fixing his smart phone, computer, and technology. Tasks I am honored to help with.

 

I like doing my own maintenance, and plan on servicing my Mercury here when the water gets hard. Right now it's ATV maintenance time, before deer season.

 

On-line PDF manuals and YouTube make projects easy to understand and complete.

 

I'm thankful I had a Dad to show me, the resources and tools needed, and the time to tackle these projects.

 

You are 100% correct, preventative maintenance is better than fixing on the back end.

 

 

 

[GRiver]

@gimruis I know people that pay $500.00 too get their boat done before they go back north for the summer. 

[airshot]

You have a dealer that is treating you well, hang on to them !!!

[gim]

16 minutes ago, GRiver said:

@gimruis I know people that pay $500.00 too get their boat done before they go back north for the summer. 

It’s possible this particular service center is charging nearly that much solely based on the size of the boat and outboard. I only have a 75 on about an 18 foot boat. But the cost generally goes up exponentially as the boat and motor get bigger. They have winterization costs listed right on a board when you walk in too. I should have taken a photo of it. Oh well

[TnRiver46]

Definitely a great price 

[Darth-Baiter]

that's better than an oil and lube on a car around here!!

 

my new Tacoma has the oil filter cartridge.  my first time ever doing a cartridge type.  nervous kinda.  I might let my mechanic buddy do it the first time and I watch.  

[TnRiver46]

I’d keep things finger tight on the Tacoma, all my

friends with Toyota trucks have bad problems getting anything loose. It appears they call tundra maintenance free because nobody can get the wheel bearing loose to do maintenance. My buddy Brad had 3 mechanics say they could do it but all failed 

[Darth-Baiter]

6 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

I’d keep things finger tight on the Tacoma, all my

friends with Toyota trucks have bad problems getting anything loose. It appears they call tundra maintenance free because nobody can get the wheel bearing loose to do maintenance. My buddy Brad had 3 mechanics say they could do it but all failed 

not to hyjack, but the first time I tried to do the front brakes on my older tacoma. it was winter, and I couldn't break any caliper bolt loose.  I put the wheel back on and took it to my buddy.  no thanks.  

 

he did both bearings in front just recently.  I'll more than likely sell the old one soon.  I had doing musical chair parking with the two trucks. 

[Kirtley Howe]

I have access to both an air and a battery powered impact wrench. My brother who owns a machine shop has an industrial air compressor that can make 350 lbs. of air pressure. The only drawback to that one is that you have to make sure you have the wrench well braced...you can snap a wrist if you are not careful. The battery powered wrench is a 40v. Both are 1/2 inch drive. I use an industrial penetrating oil to loosen up rust (it makes WD40 seem like glue) The only time I have been unable to remove a bolt or nut is because it is totally rounded off, or it is inaccessible. If it is rounded off, I have access to an oxy acetylene torch. I don't ask a bolt to come loose...I TELL it to come loose. And I am not kidding around. A buddy of mine had a Toyota Tundra and could not get the wheel bearing nuts loose....it took 3 broken impact sockets (lifetime warrantee so no cost replacement) , but they DID come off. The nuts had to be replaced, as they were a "little bit" distorted. One trick I have learned is that if the bolt will not loosen up, try tightening it up, then loosening it up...repeat as necessary. Sometimes that works. I have also used and air chisel to cut through a nut if all else fails.  I would love to just take things to the shop and let them do it, but I am cheap and unless absolutely necessary I will not pay others to do what I can do.

[TnRiver46]

I like you @Kirtley Howe. Wish you lived on my street 😂 

[airshot]

On 11/2/2023 at 1:54 PM, gimruis said:

I have been asked before on here what I pay for winterizing my boat every fall and it was always at the wrong time of year.  Well I just got my boat back from the service center and here is what I paid, and what they did.  I've been taking it to this location which is about 20 minutes away for 7 years now.  It took them about 8 days to do it.  I have a 2015 Ranger RT178 with a 75 Mercury 4-stroke outboard.

 

Change oil and filter on outboard

Change lower unit gear oil with new plug seals

Fuel stabilizer (I only use ethanol free premium fuel, so I don't think this is really necessary)

Prop shaft cleaned and lubricated

Greased zerks/hubs on trailer if needed

Fog engine and replace spark plugs

Remove all water from system and run antifreeze through water lines

 

Additionally, they also conduct a battery load test on all three of my batteries, check my trailer lights, and adjust tire pressure if necessary.  If I need a new bulb somewhere, they change it.  This time, they told me that one of my fender bulbs was dead and they changed that with a replacement LED.  They also told me that my valve stem on my spare trailer tire was bad, and they took care of that.

 

As of right now, my batteries are still good but I intend to change the 2 deep cycles before next spring as they are 3+ years old now.

 

The total cost was $237.06 for all this.  I receive 10% off because I bought the boat through them.

 

I feel pretty good about the cost I pay for the service I get.  Preventative maintenance is easier than letting things go and then trying to fix it after the problem occurs.  I'm not savvy or knowledgeable enough to do all of this on my own, nor do I have all the tools required either.

 

Sincerely,

Happy boat owner

 

In reference to the fuel stabilizer the dealer adds...let them do it. !!  Smart people there,  even though your not using E10 fuel still degrades, as a younger man I went thru gallons of "gumout" cleaning varnish and other buildups from inside carbs for many, many years  !!   Nothing has changed, so let them add it.  Way tobeasy to blame E10 for everything...kinda like climate change because we burn fossil fuels, easier to blame oil than to change our habits and prepare for earth's changes...be sure to shake your dealers hand and say thanks....

37 minutes ago, Kirtley Howe said:

I have access to both an air and a battery powered impact wrench. My brother who owns a machine shop has an industrial air compressor that can make 350 lbs. of air pressure. The only drawback to that one is that you have to make sure you have the wrench well braced...you can snap a wrist if you are not careful. The battery powered wrench is a 40v. Both are 1/2 inch drive. I use an industrial penetrating oil to loosen up rust (it makes WD40 seem like glue) The only time I have been unable to remove a bolt or nut is because it is totally rounded off, or it is inaccessible. If it is rounded off, I have access to an oxy acetylene torch. I don't ask a bolt to come loose...I TELL it to come loose. And I am not kidding around. A buddy of mine had a Toyota Tundra and could not get the wheel bearing nuts loose....it took 3 broken impact sockets (lifetime warrantee so no cost replacement) , but they DID come off. The nuts had to be replaced, as they were a "little bit" distorted. One trick I have learned is that if the bolt will not loosen up, try tightening it up, then loosening it up...repeat as necessary. Sometimes that works. I have also used and air chisel to cut through a nut if all else fails.  I would love to just take things to the shop and let them do it, but I am cheap and unless absolutely necessary I will not pay others to do what I can do.

I agree and used to do the same thing, but at 73 and a bunch of arthritus, I have to pay others, there is a limit on what I can now do !!  Still have lots of my tools and things and the brain still works ( I think ). so, I try to find young fellows to help out and do a little teaching and let them use my tools and garage....not very many takers anymore, no one wants to learn or get there hands dirty....

[Jigfishn10]

$237.06 might get half my boat shrink wrapped. I'd say you did pretty good, g-man.

[TnRiver46]

A quart of gear lube seems to last a couple years for me, changing power head oil and filter seems to cost 50 bucks or more. Where you are getting the ballin deal is storage!
 

And a two pack of trailer light bulbs is like 7.99 now haha, thimble sized 

[Susky River Rat]

That’s a great deal. I don’t winterize my boat. It hopefully doesn’t sit for longer than a month even over winter.
 

i do get it professionally gone over every year. I have a great shop I go to. Family owned straight up with anything they do. I was going there even before I bought my current boat from them.