I have a shimano curado dc 151, and a medium heavy 7 foot 2 mojo bass rod. I would primarily use the setup for cranking, some jerk baits, some hard and soft plastic swim baits, and maybe some weighted senko rigs. I will also use it for some topwater applications. I am wondering if I should go towards mono or fluoro. 

I fish most topwater with mono, and I'd go with 14lb mono to cover the other techniques you listed. But I'm new to bass fishing, only 44 years of hunting them.

 

Mono all the way

Don't want fast sinking line with topwater

Thanks! I will go with mono

14ish lb mono is what I would run

Fluoro is the best line for those applications until you get to topwater which is definitely mono-.  I have a topwater setup with mono- but everything else is either fluoro or braid.  If the rod is primarily for the first 4 combos you listed then I would put fluoro on the reel and find something else to put mono- on for topwater.  Sure, mono- will work for those other applications but flouro is better since it is more sensitive and most have less stretch than mono-.  Good luck.    

I fish A LOT of topwater and I'm guessing I catch more bass on the surface than 99% of the BR crew. That said, I started with mono with surface lures and switched to 30-lb. test braid. I fish spinning rods and make the longest possible casts. I found that I couldn't stick a four-pounder that's way yonder with stretchy mono, not even with my MH rods. Another advantage of 30 lb. braid is you can wrassle bass out of weeds. Now, they don't all stay stuck once they're burrowed into weeds, but the line never breaks. Never. 

I use either a copolymer or tripolymer for top water

Sounds like a do-all setup. Me personally, I would run 14lb fluorocarbon because it better covers the majority of the applications you listed. Since you are only going to use it for "some" topwater use, it will work just fine for throwing a buzzbait around on the occasions that you are going to throw topwater. I've had plenty of success using FC to throw buzzbaits. You'll have to skip other topwater presentations (or get another setup) if you want to throw poppers, spooks, etc. 

Save some money, use mono, change it often.  

Buy once, cry once. Get a good fluorocarbon, not some bargain line.  Fluorocarbon will last you several seasons.  I've gone 5 with Invisx and 4 with Tatsu (still going...).  

 

UNLESS:

You absolutely have to use topwater like a popper or spook that requires pauses in the presentation.  In that case, I'd recommend a quality copolymer.  My go to is P-Line CXX, but it's not a beginner line. 

 

That is the other question: if you're just starting out, just get a decent mono like Big Game, until you're proficient, then upgrade to fluoro.

 

In all cases, get KVD Line & Lure Conditioner.  Treat the spool with a few squirts when you fill it, and let it dry over night.  Retreat after every trip, and your line will last, and stay supple.

I vote mono. Suffix Siege is a good choice . It’s smoooooth. 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have not bought the rod yet, and I have heard that medium power and moderate action is better on a 7 foot 2 rod for what I am using for than medium heavy and fast. I have also heard that 7 foot 3 works slightly better. 

Which one would you recommend for what I will be using it for

I use 12 pound Sufix Siege mono in Smoke Green for my do it all baitcasting rig. 

I use baitcasters 90% of the time.  In Florida as shallow as it is, with lots of weeds, and mostly light stain water, I use 15 pound Mono for top water.  15 pound floro for all plastics, because of sinking, and invisibility.  50 pound braid for flipping and pitching thick weeds.  I don’t use leaders on the braid.  Crankbits I will use both the floro and mono depending how deep the water is, and how deep the crank bait is designed to go.

I have a st croix avid x (7’ m/f) I use similarly as an all-arounder for hardbaits including topwaters as well as soft plastics and I’ve been through a bunch of lines including the ones mentioned here and have settled on yo-zuri hybrid (12lb). It’s a co-extruded blend of nylon and fluoro which has better durability than monos, less stretch, 100% water absorption resistance which weakens monos, and is widely available at a great price point. Choose based on diameter, not stated strength, it runs a bit thicker and stronger than other lines. Below is their spec sheet with IGFA tested actual break strengths for each line size.

6 hours ago, Bass Rutten said:

It’s a co-extruded blend of nylon and fluoro

ya...most hybrids are just nylon with a coating of flouro, YZH goes that extra step.

On 10/18/2024 at 6:58 AM, ohio_fisherman10 said:

Thanks! I will go with mono

Co poly or mono? Some folks will call a copolymer a mono. Bear in mind that a true mono will absorb water after a while. Making it heavier.. it will even cast better but it may affect your topwater baits action depending on what your using. Good luck. 

1 hour ago, F14A-B said:

Some folks will call a copolymer a mono.

Technically it is....it's not like it's multiple strands twisted or woven together like thread, string, rope or (gasp) braid. We made nylon in college chemistry class, and it's lots of fine filaments that bond together to create the 'monofilament' that we all know. It is a 'monofilament' as you really can't separate them. Just that everyone is use to calling Nylon line 'mono', where-as in reality it's also a bonded bunch of filaments.

On 10/18/2024 at 9:53 AM, scaleface said:

Save some money, use mono, change it often. 

Save some headaches, too.  I know some people can make FC work, but I am not one of them.  No I've not popped for the really expensive stuff because mono works just fine and it is my opinion that most of the sensitivity/stretch advantages are not real.   FC leaders on braid are enough to screw up the action of many top-water lures by their sinking and pulling the lure under on the twitch. 

1 hour ago, MN Fisher said:

Technically it is....it's not like it's multiple strands twisted or woven together like thread, string, rope or (gasp) braid. We made nylon in college chemistry class, and it's lots of fine filaments that bond together to create the 'monofilament' that we all know. It is a 'monofilament' as you really can't separate them. Just that everyone is use to calling Nylon line 'mono', where-as in reality it's also a bonded bunch of filaments.

Well I ran an extruding machine (actually several) but point being I’m familiar with the process. However, the Copolys I use all have a Fluorocarbon coating particularly CX and CXX. Therefore it prevents uncoated monofilament lines from absorbing water, which happened for decades with Stren clear/blue which I used heavily in the 70’s and 80’s you probably did too. Yozuri has a bit different process since you have already alluded to that earlier. At any rate a person has to try multiple line types in various sizes to determine what suits the individuals needs. For most of us, fishing is a lifetime hobby with lots & lots of advancements. 
 

Btw, I made plastic for Elon Musk, Honda & Toyota, occasionally for Suzuki..

 

PS: I use Pline CX on spinning, CXX and predominantly Yozuri Hybrid on baitcasters. However I’m not happy with the 20 pound YO. I’ve ordered 22 pound Daiwa Samurai FC to test w my flip and pitch equipment. 

Last time I used Yozuri Hybrid 14 on a BC it felt like I had rubber bands for line.  I don't know the technicalities, but it's really a stretchy line.