Here are my rod listings for folks to get a chuckle at....again I am bargain bin guy but here is what I have..

Diawa Procyon 7', MH 1/4-3/4 not sure of power, I think its an Inshore rod...

Diawa Arid-x 7', M Fast 1/4-3/4

Diawa Arid-x 7', MH Fast 1/4-1

Diawa Arid-x 7'-3", MH Fast 1/4-1

Diawa Arid-x 7', H Fast 3/8-1.5

H20 Premier 7', M Moderate 1/8-1/2

Falcon Evo 6'-8", MH Fast, 1/4-3/4

Falcon Evo 6'-6", M Moderate 1/4-1/2

Abu Vengance 7'-6" H Fast 1/2-2

Cabelas Tourney Trail 7'-6" H Fast 1/2-2 1/4

 

The MH Arid-x rods are pretty stiff even when throwing the full size baits, I think what I need to look for is a medium heavy moderate rod and those are harder to find at least on sale, lol. I think I am going to try the Falcon 6-8 MH rod and see how that does and then maybe the Arid-x MH but its pretty stiff.

12 minutes ago, T-Billy said:

X2. + Keeping that big hook sharp is also very important. If it slides across your thumbnail instead of digging in with very little pressure, it ain't sharp enough.

I keep my hooks sharp, thats not a problem.

Anyone has any suggestions on budget or clearance rods let me know....but when I mean budget I mean well under $100, from that list of rods I do not think I have spent over $35 on any one rod, those evos were picked up for 25-30ea, the procyon which I have 2 were $15ea and most of the arids average were around $35. At least if I have a list I can keep an eye out for some future deals and look for specific ones...

4 hours ago, HawkeyeSmallie said:

 

When you say "H action" do you mean heavy power?

I mean this 

A-Jay

I have the same problem. One day it was so bad that I removed the trailer completely and it worked , for that day. I kept trying it without a trailer and began losing fish again.  I got just as many bites though.

1 minute ago, scaleface said:

I have the same problem. One day it was so bad that I removed the trailer completely and it worked , for that day. I kept trying it without a trailer and began losing fish again.  I got just as many bites though.

Yeah it can be frustrating, with me Inseem to catch the smaller fish just fine, its the larger fish that I am losing. Just have to keep teying different things until I get it dialed in....

Similar to @RRocket and @Columbia Craw I have found a moderate action rod works best for me in regard to positive landing the fish rates with bladed lures

I have a Medium/Moderate rod that I use for the smaller bladed lures and a Heavy/Moderate that I have used for larger bladed lures

Similar to yourself I was losing fish - when I switched from fast action to moderate action I have found a positive increase in getting the fish into the boat  

Don’t ignore the barb.

Crank the reel fast and swing into the loaded rod!

Tom

I have the 6’8” MH in the Cara line.  It’s an older Falcon design that they have kept around.  I am assuming the Evo is the same design/feel just with different graphite.  I don’t mind the Cara for short range fishing with spinnerbaits and bladed jigs, but it is borderline for enough power to set a normal jig hook without braid and I don’t like braid for the reasons I mentioned above.  If you have sharp hooks and lighter wire hooks in a jig or spinnerbait then you can get by.  Instead, I keep it for walking baits due to its length and handle length.  In the falcon lineup, a 6-power is really the sweet spot for bladed jigs (the exception being the 5-power swim jig which has a lot of oomph). 

 

I don’t know about getting one on clearance or with a discount, but the Bucoo 6’10” pitching stick (MSRP $99) is the one to look for if you can get one in your price range.  that is the head turner model and my preferred choice.  

I get solid hook sets using both straight mono or FC line using a 6’10” 5 power jig rod after casting 120’ to 150’ using the reel set with firm rod sweep. Without this hook set technique it’s impossible to move enough line to get a hook set.

Tom

 

I'm relatively new to the bladed jig game, they were in the mix a number of years ago but I dropped them out of the rotation for quite a while. Year or 2 ago they made a cameo in my line up... became a recurring character in my show

 

I just copped a new Edge 765 NEO basically just for chatterbaits, but also other moving single hook baits I'm fond of. I've never seen chatterbaits so well placed and hooked in the mouth before. I've tried all the combinations, mono/hybrid with a 7'3mh or 6'9h fast/exfast rod, braid with a 7ft moderate carbon rod, braid with 7'6 mh moderate fast carbon rod...

 

Here's what I've learned

 

Make sure that you have the drag set to slip if you yank a hook set. I know myself, I get jumpy... too tight drag will make any combo you use the wrong combo. But the best hook set is **is this weeds...hmm...let me get them off...these weeds are pulling back... I guess I should reel down and give a little umph and drag them in as quick as possible with my rod tip to the side and low so these weeds can't jump and spit the hook**

 

Sharpen your hooks! I'm new to this. I feel like the grooved hook sharpeners don't work well, I'm trying to teach myself but I'm still pretty inconsistent. Thus I keep sharpening haha, until I'm very positive the hook is maximally sharp.

 

This 7'5 heavy unique action rod, its like a moderate fast on the fight but a fast for casting and moving the lure, with 30# braid is unbeatable. Wish I bought 3 of them for all my moving baits set ups.

 

Lastly, sell 2-4 of those rods and get a rod designed to give you more, it's totally worth it if you fish a lot. Invest in a healthy hobby, and really you can recoup some cash by selling on fb market. Your asking a lot from those rods when you're trying to dial your combo in and getting technique specific. I don't think we need 20 rods for 20 techniques, but you have almost 20 rods anyway so you might as well start getting specific. 

 

If not, go grab a MH or H ugly stick to try for your chatterbaits, they have a decent bend and might let the bass take it a little better for you. 

 

A 6# bass around here is like a 9# down south, heartthumpingshakyexcitement, and this rod pulled her in from the bank about 40 yards out over/though some decent vegetation. Kept her pinnee solid on a little jump, and I dont think any of my other combos would've pulled that off based on previous experience. 

 

 

10 hours ago, bishoptf said:

Anyone has any suggestions on budget or clearance rods let me know....but when I mean budget I mean well under $100

Berkley Lightning rod 6'6" MHF Amazon.com : Berkley 6’6” Lightning Rod Casting Rod, One Piece Casting Rod, 8-14lb Line Rating, Medium Rod Power, Moderate Fast Action, 1/4-5/8 oz. Lure Rating : Sports & Outdoors

 

Berkley Lightning Casting Rod - 6ft 6in, Medium Heavy, Fast, 1pc | Sportsman's Warehouse

 

My son in law has had 2 for the past 5 years. A slower fast, almost moderate, IMO. No issues at all, and bass up 7 1/2lbs.

Gotta let the fish eat the bait good before a sweeping hookset. 
 

My rods for the tactic.

 

7 hours ago, Banned User said:

I'm relatively new to the bladed jig game, they were in the mix a number of years ago but I dropped them out of the rotation for quite a while. Year or 2 ago they made a cameo in my line up... became a recurring character in my show

 

I just copped a new Edge 765 NEO basically just for chatterbaits, but also other moving single hook baits I'm fond of. I've never seen chatterbaits so well placed and hooked in the mouth before. I've tried all the combinations, mono/hybrid with a 7'3mh or 6'9h fast/exfast rod, braid with a 7ft moderate carbon rod, braid with 7'6 mh moderate fast carbon rod...

 

Here's what I've learned

 

Make sure that you have the drag set to slip if you yank a hook set. I know myself, I get jumpy... too tight drag will make any combo you use the wrong combo. But the best hook set is **is this weeds...hmm...let me get them off...these weeds are pulling back... I guess I should reel down and give a little umph and drag them in as quick as possible with my rod tip to the side and low so these weeds can't jump and spit the hook**

 

Sharpen your hooks! I'm new to this. I feel like the grooved hook sharpeners don't work well, I'm trying to teach myself but I'm still pretty inconsistent. Thus I keep sharpening haha, until I'm very positive the hook is maximally sharp.

 

This 7'5 heavy unique action rod, its like a moderate fast on the fight but a fast for casting and moving the lure, with 30# braid is unbeatable. Wish I bought 3 of them for all my moving baits set ups.

 

Lastly, sell 2-4 of those rods and get a rod designed to give you more, it's totally worth it if you fish a lot. Invest in a healthy hobby, and really you can recoup some cash by selling on fb market. Your asking a lot from those rods when you're trying to dial your combo in and getting technique specific. I don't think we need 20 rods for 20 techniques, but you have almost 20 rods anyway so you might as well start getting specific. 

 

If not, go grab a MH or H ugly stick to try for your chatterbaits, they have a decent bend and might let the bass take it a little better for you. 

 

A 6# bass around here is like a 9# down south, heartthumpingshakyexcitement, and this rod pulled her in from the bank about 40 yards out over/though some decent vegetation. Kept her pinnee solid on a little jump, and I dont think any of my other combos would've pulled that off based on previous experience. 

 

 

Where did you score the Edge rod? You order it or buy it from someone?

1 hour ago, F14A-B said:

score the Edge rod

I build rods now, haven't ordered a manufacturers rod in a few years, but my life situation at present precludes me from building. Bumped into a killer deal on the Edge rod knowing that I have heard rave reviews on this one for moving baits.

 

Sign up for their email list and catch a sale, be patient, if you need a rod for an upcoming tourney this is not the way brother. But if you just want a fantastic rod at a fantastic price and you can wait, this is the right choice. 

 

Also, just to add cuz it wasn't in my first post, the rod is composite. 

 

I was way less sweaty fighting this big girl in than I'm any other bladed jig combo

I'm a fast action rod and copolymer/mono guy with my bladed jigs. I prefer a slower reel (6.2:1), but mostly because it keeps me from overfishing the bait. I think the main issue that some fish, especially big ones are lost, is because they inhale the bait deeply  and the fish gets hooked in the thin skin in the roof of the mouth further back. That area is mostly bone except a thin skin membrane. When a big fish inhales the bait far back, that area tears easily during a hard fight with a big fish. It's difficult for the hook to get the appropriate angle to get more penetration that just being surface/skin hooked. This fish was hooked about in the area I'm talking about but thankfully got hooked deeper than just the surface.

13 hours ago, A-Jay said:

I mean this 

A-Jay

This is also the exact rod I throw my chatters on. I believe I picked it up for $80 from TW after Christmas a few years ago. A bit heavier than I prefer, but it keeps em hooked. 

 

I wouldn't change the gear you are using.  If you are already getting bit you may change how many bites you get by switching gear.  I would start by changing your hook set, then try changing gear if that doesn't work.  I don't set the hook the instant I feel a strike with a bladed jig.  I like to wait until I feel some weight of the fish, similar to the way I set the hook with a topwater bait.  Most of the time a bass will hit a moving bait, and turn to run off with it.  If you wait for them to turn and run, which you will feel as some slowly increasing weight rather than a sharp jab, you will get a solid hook set in the corner of the mouth.  Don't wait to long, because they can spit it at any time.  I like to feel the sharp strike, wait for the rod to load a little then set the hook hard.  This works for me, but of course may not work for you.

 

We have all seen the old video of a bass inhaling a crankbait and quickly spitting it out without the angler even realizing he was hit.  This makes people think they have to have a more sensitive rod, and set the hook lightning quick.  In reality that bass is gone.  There is no way to detect, then set the hook on a bite that happens that fast.  It is better to give a bass a second to turn, and make sure you hook the ones that don't instantly spit the lure out rather than try harder to catch the ones that do.     

I hate to assume, but if you are throwing a glass rod, are you most likely using braid?

4 minutes ago, HawkeyeSmallie said:

I hate to assume, but if you are throwing a glass rod, are you most likely using braid?

I think the DXB that A-Jay and I fish are technically composite rods as they claim to use a little graphite for reinforcement. It does behave like a glass rod IME. I throw it on straight fluoro without issues. Using the "reel set" that @WRB-2.0 mentioned must make up for the softness of the glass because I have better hooking/landing percentages on this rod than any other I've tried. 

Going to go a different direction here then gear. From your list it looks like you have stuff that should work.

 

Have you tried changing up your retrieve speed? I've never had a hookup problem with vibrating jigs but with spinners when I'd get what you are describing a change of speed (either faster or slower) usually got them to bite better. 

On 9/14/2025 at 9:51 PM, bishoptf said:

Just thought I would ask and see what I may try to get a better landing percentage when using a vibrating jig, I tend to sweep the hook set and maybe I need to go up more

Just a question. Do you have a tendency to point the rod directly at the lure on the retrieve? If so, the action of the rod is taken out of the equation as you've simply created a direct line from the bait to the reel through the rod's guides. Combined with braid mainline and little stretch afforded by a leader, you're left with no give, or delay.

 

You mentioned that you've had the same poor results regardless of the rods you've tried including some of your more moderate selections. If you're doing this, try creating an angle between the rod and line whether that's up towards noon, or to the side when you're retrieving. By doing this, you'll now allow the rod to load when the fish hits which will create the delay you're looking for.

 

I noticed that I was doing this myself in the beginning with CBs for some odd reason, pointing my rod directly at the bait. Bought a glass rod to find a solution before I figured out what I was doing wrong, but of course it didn't help. Once I had my ah-ha moment, I've gone back to stouter MHF rods and straight braid and very rarely lose fish. I also believe that consciously relaxing my grip on the rod and reel also introduces a skosh more give into the entire system which also helps, IMO.

14 hours ago, Banned User said:

 

 

Sharpen your hooks! I'm new to this. I feel like the grooved hook sharpeners don't work well, I'm trying to teach myself but I'm still pretty inconsistent. Thus I keep sharpening haha, until I'm very positive the hook is maximally sharp.

 

 

The absolute best tool for sharpening a hook is not a hook sharpener….It’s an Ignition or Points file, available at just about any auto parts store for a couple of bucks. 
 

 

With a little practice, you can get just about the worst hook sticky sharp with just a few passes. 

Can we talk about chatterbaits in this thread or no?  LOL

 

This year I've by far thrown a swimjig with a swimbait as a trailer. I love it and have had good success.

 

What does a bladed jig do better?

 

 

 

 

 

 

11 minutes ago, HawkeyeSmallie said:

Can we talk about chatterbaits in this thread or no?  LOL

 

This year I've by far thrown a swimjig with a swimbait as a trailer. I love it and have had good success.

 

What does a bladed jig do better?

 

 

 

 

 

 

make noise.  cause reaction strikes.  Sometimes that's what the fish want.

1 hour ago, PhishLI said:

Just a question. Do you have a tendency to point the rod directly at the lure on the retrieve? If so, the action of the rod is taken out of the equation as you've simply created a direct line from the bait to the reel through the rod's guides. Combined with braid mainline and little stretch afforded by a leader, you're left with no give, or delay.

 

You mentioned that you've had the same poor results regardless of the rods you've tried including some of your more moderate selections. If you're doing this, try creating an angle between the rod and line whether that's up towards noon, or to the side when you're retrieving. By doing this, you'll now allow the rod to load when the fish hits which will create the delay you're looking for.

 

I noticed that I was doing this myself in the beginning with CBs for some odd reason, pointing my rod directly at the bait. Bought a glass rod to find a solution before I figured out what I was doing wrong, but of course it didn't help. Once I had my ah-ha moment, I've gone back to stouter MHF rods and straight braid and very rarely lose fish. I also believe that consciously relaxing my grip on the rod and reel also introduces a skosh more give into the entire system which also helps, IMO.

I fish a lot of crankbaits and pretty much tend to point my rod at the bait and probably am doing this just out of habit. Thats a good point so I will try to more consistently to hold my rod at an angle when throwing them since I usually want them to go deeper and I am usually pumping my rod to get some movement. Will see if I can do it consistent enough to see if it makes a difference, I have also changed up my rod that I was throwing it on to a more stiffer rod, from a medium to a medium heavy and will see if that helps also, thanks for the suggestion. 

31 minutes ago, ElGuapo928 said:

The absolute best tool for sharpening a hook is not a hook sharpener….It’s an Ignition or Points file, available at just about any auto parts store for a couple of bucks. 
 

 

With a little practice, you can get just about the worst hook sticky sharp with just a few passes. 

Funny thats actually the same thing I use, lol...

13 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

make noise.  cause reaction strikes.  Sometimes that's what the fish want.

Thats my guess also, they throw off a lot more vibration and for whatever reason its way different than a spinnerbait. For whatever reason I perfer moving baits and usually have spinnerbait, chatterbaits, crankbaits and swimjig tied on. I can roll through an area that I know has fish and try different ones and usually figure out what they are going to prefer for that time period. It's odd but some days they prefer one over the other.

 

What has surprised me the most is that while I have caught decent size fish on spinnerbait, overall the fish that tend to hit the bladed jig are larger fish. Not sure why that is and it's my on anecdotal experience but I seem to catch larger fish on the vibrating jig.