The number one reason is the Bait Monkey.

 

  

Slack line sensitivity and it sinks

If I'm fishing a rock pile where every cast is a 50/50 shot between getting bit or getting snagged... I'll throw straight fluoro and tie a uni knot instead of a palomar. I have a large spool of 17lb AbrazX and combo just for that because I'm lazy and I don't want to tie a handful of leaders throughout the day.

 

If I'm not fishing a jig cemetery, I'll go braid to leader for everything.

 

There's at least a couple of those spots where I've lost enough lead to cover the no. 4 reactor in Chernobyl about three times over.

I believe #1 would be confidence.

 

Most of the water I fish is gin clear and this has me throwing quite a bit of finesse, drop-shot, Ned and Shaky head.

 

Several years ago the knowledge I've gained from this very site, finesse techniques and 8# flouro leader lead to much greater productivity on the water.

 

Sensitivity would be right up there as well.

15# braid to 8# flouro leader, Alberto knot on spinning tackle is what I've found to be holy grail. 

I use it because it works for me.  that's all.

 

I have never asked anyone I was fishing with what their reel is spooled up with.  that would be weird.

15 hours ago, LonnieP said:

Slack line sensitivity and it sinks

That’s a fact Jack.

It's super clear and it sinks.

On 12/11/2025 at 8:29 AM, LonnieP said:

Slack line sensitivity and it sinks

How do you get sensitivity with slack line?

49 minutes ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

How do you get sensitivity with slack line?

Since it's not as stretchy as nylon, it does transmit vibration along it's length even when semi-slack.

2 hours ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

How do you get sensitivity with slack line?

     It is stiffer (not as bendy as mono) and that is why transmits vibrations up the slack line to your hands. Braided line transmits better but that is only when it is taut/tight.

   Fluorocarbon line "IMHO" is necessary for jig, T-rig fishing because of it's greater sensitivity. 

FM

#1 reason no doubt for me is slack line sensitivity. I do love braid too at times but it’s dead when there’s slack in the line.

Lot of myths in this thread. FC stretches the same as mono and has less abrasion resistance than both Maxima and Big Game mono. Line doesn’t transmit vibration under water you feel line movements, not vibrations.

Buy if you believe that FC has superior qualities the confidence can’t be denied.

Tom

Uniform sink rate is imperative when finesse fishing. A braid to leader "hockey stick" shape because of lines with 2 different sink rates can spell disaster in not detecting bites on the way down, or having to reel up too fast to catch up with the fish. One main line of all fluorocarbon cures this...  Gets you to the strike zone in a straight line and keeps you there.. 

11 hours ago, WRB-2.0 said:

Lot of myths in this thread. FC stretches the same as mono and has less abrasion resistance than both Maxima and Big Game mono. Line doesn’t transmit vibration under water you feel line movements, not vibrations.

Buy if you believe that FC has superior qualities the confidence can’t be denied.

Tom

Funny, means more coming from you but I was going to post the same thing. Most of the reasons mentioned are based on myths and there are plenty of videos to show that a lot of these reasons stated are no different than mono. I've been using mono and have continued to use mono since most of the reasons stated are not accurate.

 

I've started dabbling again with fluoro but for me the main reason is strength to diameter ratio. Not all but most fluoro are rated higher strength wise per diameter. Allows me to run say a 12lb line but with the diameter equal to 8lb mono etc. Now saying that, in pristine condition it will meet their # rating but it is the same diameter as the smaller mono so any nicks in the line and its rating goes down to what the mono is rated at and the same for mono. But for certain things like moving baits that I would like a smaller diameter line yet stronger line I will use fluoro. The other caveat is that this probably only matters on really clear lakes where a smaller diameter line may be beneficial, any color to the water and not going to matter and I will probably throw mono.

 

Believe it or not and I know most probably don't, a good mono will out perform on most of the items that people have been posting here vs fluoro.

 

Just my opinion...

For full fluoro line, i like it for just two reasons. I feel like the action on jerkbaits is superior. There's more slashing on a jerk. Secondly, i like the feel of it when grinding rocks with squarebills. That's it, i don't use full fluoro for anything else. The main reason i use a fluoro leader at all times is for abrasion resistance, and it helps against pike/musky teeth (sometimes lol).

I’d say a controlled slack line or semi slack line. Feeling line movement is proper as Tom stated (as it pertains to FC) When you have 10 titanium/SIC guides you’re going to feel that movement very nicely. Different rods impart different feel. Same with line types. 

It's the best option in a lot of situations. Yes it's more expensive but if you are throwing something like a hard jerkbait that you paid over $20 for throwing it on mono seems a bit silly to me...

Fluoro vs. braid slack line sensitivity...  a fisherman once told me, "you can't push a rope"...

I no longer use fluorocarbon line, except a spool of Seguar 8lb test that I use as braid to leader for drop shots and Ned. When it is gone, it’s gone. Will not replace. Although just using it for leaders it may outlast me.

I am much happier using P-Line Fluroclear in 6/8/10/12/15.