S Hovanec

Hmmm. Now you got me thinking.

Got my first call from them last year. I ticked off the lady so much she told me to "go kill myself" and hung up on me.

Can't speak for the other 2, but I have much experience with St. Croix's MLXF. I've had the Avid, gave it to the wife when I built my LTB. Gave her the LTB when I built a SCV. Gave her the SCV when I built the second SCV. I now have another SCV to build cause you can never have too many DS rods.

IMO, that's high. as for add-ons adding value, they need to be somewhat current. That old Garmin won't add anything to the price, but I'm sure he added what he paid for it to his asking price.

That model call is an older rod, probably comparable to maybe today's Premier or possibly an Avid. Is the blank black? Like said, any Croix for $10 is a steal!

I did and would do it again. My only regret was getting the 17'/135hp instead of the 18'/150hp. I've been happy enough with it to still have it after 11 years.

The only guides I take offense to are the ones with metal rings. Fenwick/Abu/Berkley uses lots of that style. The guide of most concern for wear is the tip. I've replaced many many SS ringed tips due to grooving. The only time you have to be concerned with a ceramic grooving is if the ring gets cracked. Then it will usually just fall out and requires guide replacement.

All moden ceramic inserts from reputable companies will hold up to any of the lines used for bass fishing today. The metal inserts, not so much. Each company calls their ceramics by different names. Hardloy, Aluminum Oxide, Nanolite, Duralite, Alconite, Zirconia, SiC, Torzite, Gold Cermet. Many of the above mentioned are one version or another of AluminumOxide. The differences in them are hardness, slickness and density or weight. Some are stronger and the rings can be made thinner, therefore reducing the weight. Just as an example: Alconite rings can be made thinner than SiC, therefore the same sized ring will weigh less, however, the SiC ring is harder and slicker. Torzite rings can be made even thinner to the point you can actually go one size smallet than you would if you were using SiC. Cost if the guide is driven by frame material, frame finish and ring material. Frames are made of either stainless steel or a titanium alloy. Frame finish can be as simple as polished SS or black paint or, as mentioned above, a chemical holographic finish, chrome plating to TiChrome. The Titanium alloy frames typcally have no additional finish added. The titanium frames shine when trying to reduce weight or you need a corrosion proof guidefor saltwater use. Hope this was coherent as I tend to ramble at times.

Fixable? Yes, by someone that knows how. Will it be the same? NO I would have refused the shipment and requested refund from paypal.

Rodgeeks Neon blue is as close as you'll find short of having a body shop paint you one. The sample on the website isn't quite what it really looks like.

Change the gear lube, change the oil in the outboard, put a few pumps of grease in the trailer axle and in the fittings on the outboard, add gas and go fishing!

I put 3 blue tops in my boat when I bought it in 2005. Just had to replace the starting battery last month. My TM batteries are only charging to 75% now, so I'll be replacing them now too. How many sets of wet cells would I have gone through in 11 seasons? Did I get another blue top starter? No. I went with the Duracel AGM from Sam's Club this time. I'll be getting 2 more for my TM.

It's pretty, but I'd take an original Pro-V or a Tyee before one of these.

^ him ^

Worth every penny and then some. Micros aren't meant for every application, but some rods benefit from their use. You could probably buy all they have and double your money selling them.

I've had both. Vinyl is easy to clean and dries quickly. It's great for winter fishing. It's also hard on the knees when you kneel down. My current boat has carpet. If I ever get another boat, it will have vinyl with the optional snap in carpet. Best of both worlds.

I've said that about rods before, but never a reel.

IMO, no. My performance builds are on SCV blanks.

You're not using that fluorescent crap or stained line for that matter in water with 20'+ of visibility with any degree of success. Been down that road with people in my boat. They end up using my rods or tying on a fluoro leader. Little off topic, but there are some that say you can fish straight braid in crystal clear water too. I fished identical setups one day, side by side, one with braid and one with braid + leader. Not a hit on the straight braid but caught fish all day on the leader. It wasn't super clear that day though. You could only see bottom in 17'.

Serious fatty. And that wouldn't even be a legal fish during PA's trophy season.....too short!

My boat would never be left in the water for such an extended period of time. It doesn't save that much time over dumping it off the trailer and then you have the hours and hours of joy cleaning it once you pull it for the season. I have friends that dock their walleye rigs and they pull them 2-3 times a season to clean the hull and spend a good part of the day doing it every time. Not this guy! My 12 year old rig looks better than their 2 and 3 year old boats that spend months on end in the water.

Ruined as in damaged, no. Ruined as in the loss of one of the main properties of fluoro, yes.

IMO, yes. Fluoro stains very easily. If I'm fishing muddy water, I won't waste the fluoro on it.

Two of my dropshot set-ups. Rod: Custom St. Croix 5S610MLXF extended to 7' Reel: Shimano TwinPower 2500HGS Line: TufLine XP 15# with 6# fluoro leader Rod: Custom North Fork Composites DS610 IM Reel: Shimano Stradic CI4 Line: PowerPro 8# with 6# fluoro leader

I have my 5 and 7 on the console and the 10 on the bow.