padlin

Just took a look, Costco jug says product of USA, obviously not Canadian. Grade A Amber.

Side question if I may. I have a couple of the woven covers that I stopped using as the hooks always got snagged. Do you folks not leave the hooks on, or not use keepers? All my rods have built in keepers. I just noticed the Pro-tech are rod length and type specific, that would help.

I don’t use anything but pure, I can’t tell much difference in where it comes from, be it VT, NY, ME, or Canada. Maybe I could if I had them side by side, but I’ve never done so. Dark is generally considered stronger than the light, which makes sense. I like the grade A medium, but that’s just me. Here’s a chart that may help, or maybe not. Grades I also use Costco, can’t beat it for the price. I will buy local made when the opportunity crops up. Last I looked Costco’s was Canadian.

We have a pond out here that sound fairly similar. Has a lot of smaller bass, sub 2 lb, very stained. I’ve noticed that of the 3 ponds I regularly fish, this is the only badly stained one, and the only one with no pickerel. The other 2 are fairly clear, are about 50% pickerel, and have much bigger but less bass, largemouth that is.

EMT would probably work, especially if you have access to a bender.

My dad… grew up poor, was a grunt in WWII, and hated Patton. Did some boxing in the service and for a few years after, all 5’6” of him. Loved to party, so of course being a tough Irish guy, he became a cop. I don’t remember him being in uniform, he was a detective when I was a kid. Worked 3 jobs, 2 part time along with the PD, so what I saw of him as a kid mostly was him being asleep on the living room floor. We did spend some time together in the church bowling league when I was in my early teens. I went in the service out of high school and he retired shortly there after due to heart issues. He went back to work after a triple bypass, but got concerned when he got in his first car chase after, the other cops kind of went overboard getting the bad guy before my dad could, so he retired before someone got in trouble trying to protect him. He passed at 58.

You eastern folks getting any wind yet? I'm guessing not as you're out with a fly rod.

We're so punctual it drives us nuts. If Thanksgiving is at 1, we're there at 1, no one else is even close. We try to be fashionably late, and we're still on time.

Ours vary $19 thru $39 a month, Singles are 10 thru 25.

I used to be anal about a clean truck, inside and out, same for the car. As my age has gone up the need to clean them has gone down. I’ve gone from roughly twice a week to when it needs it, maybe every 2 weeks. I also am down to about 3k miles a year compared to 20k. Compound, polish, and wax once a year, same as when I was younger. I’ve dropped washing the cars in the winter, by hand I mean. Used to be I could wash them down to or just below freezing, even bought diving gloves so I could, now I use the car wash down the road once a week, unless we get snow and they sand the roads, then I join the line.

Try throwing something else with the setup and see of you get the “grinding”. If I throw something like a crank or similar I can feel it thru the reels, mine being Stradics, but they feel fine with other baits like t rigs. I write it off as just the way the baits feel.

Sounds like inexact measurements, 50/50, or not mixing thoroughly. I don’t care for 5 minute epoxy either, any brand. It works but it’s not real strong.

It’s like when you realize you need to add safety rails to the shower. Whatever it takes.

That’s me too, pretty much word for word. I even use a length of carpet in the canoe to cut noise.

Thanks folks, I’m all set. Ordered a Sierra 703 and SLX MGL, the rods are on sale at ALF along with 10% everything (thanks Tom). Hopefully this works.

3/8 is the lightest. I’m looking at the Dobyns Sierra line for a rod. I have not tried the light ones on the Rev0/St Croix.

I’m taking it that as I thought, there is no way to know a reels lure capacity other than word of mouth. Doesn’t seem like it’d be to tough for manufacturers to do.

Thanks, I’m interested in the lower end, I know the baits I throw, 3/8 thru 5/8 +/-.

Is there any way to tell what lure weights a BC reel can successfully cast? A little background. This is my 1st year using a BC’er regularly due to hand issues while trying to cast heavier lures on my spinning gear, lose control of the pinched string. So I picked a hand me down A G PRM Rev0 on my old St Croix Permier MH from a previous try at it. Much better for control, just slow and only used for heavier lures, jigs and spinnerbaits. So now, getting late in our season, the hand is starting to have problems with lighter lures like 1/2 to 5/8, so I’m thinking 3/8 and up. So how can I tell if a reel can cast these weights without issues, for a sort of rookie. I’m figuring a M or MH 6.6 ish rod, I primarily fish very weeded shallow ponds. If you know of another thread on the issue pls point me to it, I couldn’t come up with search terms that did the trick.

Nice to meet you, Rage Tails being my favorite baits as you can see from my yearly backup supply of baits.

Happens a lot to me, wife too. In our case we blame it on aging. I’ve gotten to where if I lay there for say 30 minutes, I get up and read for a while, sometime a bowl of cereal works too. For me, it comes and goes. At one point in my working years I tried OTC drugs, that made it worse, you might sleep but you feel even worse in the morning, booze of course does the same.

I canoe so it’s a little different but I couldn’t go out fishing in a breeze without an anchor of sorts. After a while you learn where the wind will push you so you an anchor appropriately. For a yak an anchor trolley would help a lot whereas I can tie off from either side, front or back in the canoe, but I don’t know that I would invest the $ in a low end yak. I have a taco paddle holder in the Bass Raider with a little bungee that keeps the yak paddle in place from YakAttack that works real well.

I’m a little lost with your question, a “lead” and a “probe” are the same thing. One lead to the wire in question, the other to either battery post. If it’s too far away you can use a long jumper of some sort or find a known + or - point within reach. if Scott’s write up is more clear, use it instead.

You could ohm it out to see if it’s connected to the + or -, if that’s your concern. Put the meter on ohms, one lead on one of the battery posts, the other to the red wire, 0 ohms means that’s where it goes. That’s as easy any any.

Batteries can loose charge just sitting on a shelf, how much depends on the battery, I leave a battery maintainer hooked up to them. Some of the better chargers have a float mode that starts at the end of the charge cycle, that is the same thing.