I understand the principle of the Free Rig weight round swivel eye … What  I’m trying to better understand is how is a specialized , boutique tungsten , Free Rig weight is better than a standard lead Water Gremin Dipsey Swivel weight  ? The Water  Gremlin Weights come in popular sizes and are MUCH less expensive !  

It's not any better - but I won't buy WG products. They're based here and have had multiple citations for polluting the ground, safety issues with their employees, etc-etc-etc. They pay the fine...and continue to pollute and not insure the safety of their employees. They actually got shut down for a while...and made a token effort...but they're still behind the curve...nope, won't support them.

 

I use tear drop tungsten free rig weights.

 

You want tungsten because they are significantly smaller and way more sensitive than lead weights of comparable weights.   

 

I don't like the tungsten long and skinny tear drop weights that many times are being marketed as "free rig" weights these days.

 

I want the most compact, completely free swiveling, and open eyelet I can find.   That happens to be the fatter tear drop tungsten drop shot weights with the round eyelet instead of the half crimped ones. 

 

The ones you posted will work though.   Just about how far down the rabbit hole you want to go, just like any other bait in the Bass fishing universe.  

A smaller thinner size of the same weight falls faster creating more separation between the weight and lure, and is less prone to pick up vegetation. Any round eye tungsten weight will work, no need for boutique here. Is tungsten in general better or worth the extra dough for this application? In my opinion yes, but it's just an opinion.

I got these for use - yes, more expensive than lead, but not totally obscene in price

MUNN Tungsten Teardrop Weights

The dipsey swivels will beat up the nose of your bait because the eyelet is larger.  Bobber stop above the knot and a small bead help mitigate.

 

scott

Well , I see there is a better technique / quality difference between a cheap Free Rig weight and a simple catfish weight from Water Gremlin - thanks ! ... Now I can search with more knowledge !

Another free rig Q:

I’ve noticed that certain baits such as plastic worms, for example, are not “free rig friendly.” Once the weight hits the water the idea is to have your bait being separated from the weight to do its job, but apparently not all of them do as some tend to stick together ruining its intended purpose. How do you prevent that from happening, and what's the most effective bait(s) for free rig so that the bait is always free and does what it is supposed to do rather than acting like a generic Texas rig instead? TIA!

23 minutes ago, Eddie101 said:

Another free rig Q:

I’ve noticed that certain baits such as plastic worms, for example, are not “free rig friendly.” Once the weight hits the water the idea is to have your bait being separated from the weight to do its job, but apparently not all of them do as some tend to stick together ruining its intended purpose. How do you prevent that from happening, and what's the most effective bait(s) for free rig so that the bait is always free and does what it is supposed to do rather than acting like a generic Texas rig instead? TIA!

Wide baits or baits with lots of appendages work best. That said a fluke will work really well if you’re using spinning gear. You need the line to keep free spooling as the weight drops and slimmer profile baits benefit from a spinning reel. I’ve used literally every bait I t-rig with as a free rig bait. Worms, craws, spunk shads, gill baits, and poop baits. 

I always have a free rig with a senko tied on. It's one of my more productive bait when throwing this rig.

 

I use a bobber stopper in between the weight and knot. 

Do you think that there’s a true separation between the senko and the weight when they hit the water? IOW, are you convinced that your rig is working as a free rig should? 

On 6/23/2024 at 10:04 AM, ChrisD46 said:

The Water  Gremlin Weights come in popular sizes and are MUCH less expensive !  

 

Well, Water Gremlin is out of business.  Closed for good.

 

Sooo....there's that.

Hey Chris,

 

I've got these just for free rigging and the guys that like a direct tie to a ds.  https://siebertoutdoors.com/products/ols/products/tungsten-skinny-dropshot-weight-5-pack

55 minutes ago, Eddie101 said:

Do you think that there’s a true separation between the senko and the weight when they hit the water? IOW, are you convinced that your rig is working as a free rig should? 

That's the reason for the bobber stopper. I could see in shallow water that it wouldn't separate that well at times, so I knew I needed to do something. No issues since

41 minutes ago, Siebert Outdoors said:

Hey Chris,

 

I've got these just for free rigging and the guys that like a direct tie to a ds.  https://siebertoutdoors.com/products/ols/products/tungsten-skinny-dropshot-weight-5-pack

These look great - size, price and pencil weights don’t “grab” the weeds like bell sinkers do 👍

As your bait approaches it’s target, raise your rod high and lower it when it hits the water to provide maximum slack, you can strip line too if necessary or if fishing deeper. Typically a bait will be pulled down and will freefall only during the last half or third of its fall.

37 minutes ago, Texas Flood said:

That's the reason for the bobber stopper. I could see in shallow water that it wouldn't separate that well at times, so I knew I needed to do something. No issues since

Where do you place the bobber stopper - just over the hook or one/two ft away from the hook? 

Right between the knot and the weight

1 hour ago, Eddie101 said:

Do you think that there’s a true separation between the senko and the weight when they hit the water? IOW, are you convinced that your rig is working as a free rig should? 

Yes, it can be hard to tell by feel - but I have done this in a swimming pool often enough to see the separation. If you want more separation, go up in weight. 

37 minutes ago, FryDog62 said:

These look great - size, price and pencil weights don’t “grab” the weeds like bell sinkers do 👍

I use the cylinder weight in grass lakes and a tear drop/hybrid for the others

Siebert for me.  I buy all my tungsten from Mike.  

I have tungsten, lead and ultra steel, ultra steel is as sensitive as tungsten and way cheaper. Occasionally they might rust a bit. But I don’t care because they are cheap. 

On 6/23/2024 at 1:38 PM, MN Fisher said:

I got these for use - yes, more expensive than lead, but not totally obscene in price

MUNN Tungsten Teardrop Weights

I use those also, a very high quality and affordable price on tungsten 

I'm a Free Rig fanatic.

 

The fine wire eyes of "specialized" weights should slide more freely than thicker gauge due to friction. As mentioned, you'll want a bead or rubber stopper to protect the knot.

 

There are also some specialized weights like the Decoy DS-9 that helps the weight move more smoothly and protects the knot.

 

And finally, if you've really gone down the rabbit hole like me, I'll let you in on my personal secret rigging from Fuji...the company who make line guides. It's micro ceramic guide with an open snap (or ring or normal snap depending on model) and allows you to use any weight. And the weight seems to sink faster giving you better separation. This might be superior in some situations.

 

As pointed out by others, your need rod tip down IMMEDIATELY after the bait hits the water (with open bail) or immediately after your lift technique. This allows for separation. See excellent  under water video on the topic below.

 

 

And the Dolive Beaver is the Gold Standard Free Rig bait. The Dolive Stick is also exceptional.

 

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxH3Uxd4A2B0w1B-INItqSe7st2gSMRG5i?feature=shared

 

Aww man!  Now you're giving away my secrets!