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Is flourocarbon worth the headache?

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I’m considering switching my jig rod out to flouro. For the lower stretch and slack line sensitivity. I have never fished flouro except for a leader. Is it worth the headache and having to treat the line before fishing and all that? Or should I just go to a good 8 strand braid lol?

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  • Strange negative comments in this thread about fluorocarbon.  I think some of it comes from long-ago issues when fluorocarbon became popular for bass fishing.   Back then, fluorocarbon had high memory

  • Every 2 weeks or so when the same discussion starts up again, I say the same things again as I’ve been saying for years.  (See earlier reply) But @Glenn just says it better. 😜   I just don’

  • JackstrawIII
    JackstrawIII

    Not to me. 

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  • Super User

For casting reels, yes, especially in clear waters. Fluorocarbon requires a lot of maintenance in spinning reels.

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2 minutes ago, DogBone_384 said:

For casting reels, yes, especially in clear waters. Fluorocarbon requires a lot of maintenance in spinning reels.

Thanks! Should have said it is casting reels! 

  • Super User

Worth it…and if you’re already a good caster, there are few headaches, you don’t need to treat it, or “all that,” whatever that is 😉

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Team9nine said:

Worth it…and if you’re already a good caster, there are few headaches, you don’t need to treat it, or “all that,” whatever that is 😉

lol Thankyou. Looks like I’ll have to pick some up tomorrow 

I've never treated the flourocarbon on any of my casting reels, and don't prefer straight flouro on spinning setups. As long as you don't buy cheap stuff I'm betting it will be fine.

  • Super User

My two cents..... start with a good line and don't go over 12lb to start. I would suggest using either Invizx or Sunline FC Sniper. Tatsu is still the best in my opinion but there are others worth trying like R18 LTD and Daiwa Samurai (the camo version).  

 

It may take some getting used to but if you look at it as another tool to use rather than canon, it will be easier to adjust. 

Yep, get good quality fluoro like Tatsu, and it's not hard to handle. The first couple of casts, just don't overcook them and let the line get wet a few times. I only have fluoro for my open water bottom contact rod, and jerkbait rod however.

  • Super User
2 hours ago, Joedodge said:

I’m considering switching my jig rod out to flouro. For the lower stretch and slack line sensitivity. I have never fished flouro except for a leader. Is it worth the headache and having to treat the line before fishing and all that? Or should I just go to a good 8 strand braid lol?

Don't think that it has lower stretch.  TT did a two part series comparing plastic lines.  Check the articles out in their archives.  Personally am not a fan of fluorocarbon.  Many are.  To each his own.

No headaches. Just fish away.. All lines with the exception of braid will stretch.

  • Super User

I use it on most of my bait casting setups, except for top water.

  • Global Moderator

I use it for 95% of all my bass fishing. Stay with a quality line like Seaguar’s Tatsu or InvisX or Sunline’s Sniper and you’ll be fine. 
Weed through all the noise 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

  • Super User

No. I have tried it and swore off it. Doesn’t seem to affect my fish catching rate either. 

No headache for me.  If you buy a good quality line it doesn’t need line conditioner and always wet your knots when tying.

I use it on certain rigs and don't have any issues. I typically only use it on crank baits, jerkbaits and sometimes jigs if swimming them in more open water.

 

I hate leader knots clicking through my guides, especially on casting setups where I have at least 30lb braid and 12-20lb flouro. I typically run mono backer, then fill the spool with straight flouro.

 

Invisix and occasionally Abrazix are my go to flouro lines.

  • Super User

I’m going to add I’m in no way near as experienced as most on here so for me trying fluorocarbon I went the cheap route and tried 10 pound Seaguar Basix floro and had zero issues on my Tatula 80 with no line conditioner to boot. Again I’m not saying to buy this but rather if you listen to the above advice and use a higher quality version I don’t think you’ll have any issues.

  • Author

Thanks everyone. I doubt it will give me an  advantage at all. Just trying to up my jig game as much as I can. I’ve always fished straight braid. And recently switched to mono and I like it a lot. But always looking for that edge to maximize my enjoyment 

  • Super User
12 minutes ago, Joedodge said:

Thanks everyone. I doubt it will give me an  advantage at all. Just trying to up my jig game as much as I can. I’ve always fished straight braid. And recently switched to mono and I like it a lot. But always looking for that edge to maximize my enjoyment 

Imo, you owe it to yourself to try it, then you can truly decide, however note: Different FC lines have different behavior characteristics. I tried it in the late 90’s and it wasn’t durable at all but it has excellent “feel” so fast forward to now. There are a plethora of lines to choose from and most are just different enough add to the confusion of a first time user. 😁

  • Super User

I'm on and off the FC band wagon, more than a rockstar is in and out of rehab.  Currently I use it on my T rig and jig rod.  If I could afford to change it more often, I would use it more.  I don't use conditioner, tie my knots correctly, and do not have difficulty casting it.  My big complaint is if it gets kinked, or over stressed (pulling on a snag, or professional over run,) than a week spot can break my heart when the big one strikes.  If I was a pro and got free line, than changing it every time I over stress it would not be a problem, and it would be on almost all of my rods.

 

Like I said, one day I sing flouro carbon's praise and the next I say I will never use it again.  It has been a long time since I have had any problems, so I'm back on the FC wagon.

 

It does stretch, but because it is heavy and sinks, I believe I have more sensitivity especially on a simi slack line.  This may be my imagination, but if it is I don't mind paying the price to live in a fantasy world.

51 minutes ago, Joedodge said:

Thanks everyone. I doubt it will give me an  advantage at all. Just trying to up my jig game as much as I can. I’ve always fished straight braid. And recently switched to mono and I like it a lot. But always looking for that edge to maximize my enjoyment 

The noticeable difference will mainly be the line sinks instead of floats like mono and braid. I do think sensitivity is a bit better than mono however I find it to be much more fussy and it requires maintenance. Check your line and knot constantly and retie often. Any little imperfection can cause failure. 

  • Super User

@king fisher I had such a bad experience with Tatsu 20lb fluoro at Lake Bacarrac I threw 2 spools of it in the trash & said never again. It is not worth the frustration of loosing a trophy bass over a highly subjective improvement in visibility & slack line sensitivity. Like @GReb just said above "any little imperfection can cause failure." 

I use a jig and fluoro in real clear water and like it better than mono or braid.  I fish jigs along cattails or reed lines and I want a direct line from the tip to the jig.  With mono that floats or braid with a leader, you get an hinge effect that I don't like.  I want a direct line from tip to jig.  A lot of the fish you don't even feel them when they take the jig.  The water is so clear you see them with the lure in their mouth and a lot of times there was absolutely no pull or mouvement of the line.  

Think of it like a poor handling sinking mono that has increased abrasion resistance and slack line sensitivity but you have to cut and re-tie often because it has "poor knot strength" (deformes and weakens easily at the knot over time).  

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