rippin-lips

Backpack here too. Carry 2 - 3700 boxes and a handful of soft plastics. Not real heavy and gets the job done.

The rod will serve you well. I had one for a little while before I sold it to a friend. The upsweep on the trigger dug into my finger too much with how I hold the rod/reel. It's decently light for it's length and with the right reel it's not terribly tip heavy. Now it's time to go catch some fish with it.

I'll agree that a weightless senko will catch you some fish but as mentioned, it is very boring. It's literally my last resort after I've tried everything else. Seeing that you mentioned bullet weights I'd start with a 1/4oz bullet weight and a 3/0 hook. Texas rig your choice of plastic worm and catch some fish. It's faster and you can cover more water. Remember if you aren't getting bites it's okay to move. Sometimes the fish just aren't there.

Yeah #40 is definitely a bit heavy for spinning gear in my opinion. 10 or 15 would be better.

With that stout of a rod and braid they could of been throwing the bait out due to the large hole you make in their mouth using heavy rod. I use braid on a mh rod but back my drag off a good bit and tie about a 7ft mono shock leader. Bobby U recommends straight #15 mono and he fishes the buzzbait A LOT!

Have your dad or mom take you to the hardware store so you can buy a small brass washer to fix your reel. Be sure to take the cap and washer with you so you know it'll fit/match up.

Diesel 765 will fit the bill but remember you are buying a $50 rod. I had one and it worked for it's intended purpose but it's pretty tip heavy and heavy overall. Take a look at the daiwa tatula rods and also *** black rods. Be sure to handle the 13 first because some don't like the trigger.

Just because you caught a bass yesterday off that stump doesn't mean you will today. They move around and there are too many factors that play into it. Find the fish and you'll get bit. I always have a rage craw tied on. Some days they destroy it and others it only lands me a few fish. Try a weightless wacky rigged stick worm and see if you get bit. Then go from there.

With a flat screwdriver.

The tatula is a very nice rod for the money. Definitely a rod I'd take a look at if it was me. I will however 2nd 3rd and 4th the endurance 714 if you can come up with the extra cash for it.

Very nice fish. You sir are commited! I couldn't spend 12hrs on a kayak.

Perch is the best guess. It's like chartreuse with powder blue back. I've never seen a fish in my area that looks like that but it's a fish catcher.

Original power pro for me. As mentioned,it's cheap and I can pick it up at Walmart. I use 10/30/50/65 and it's hasn't let me down in 10yrs. I've never tried suffix so I can't speak on it but I know a lot of people like it.

I use 1" for casting rods and 2.5" for spinning rods.

They also usually have business accounts setup with these companies and save some cash that way. OP I highly suggest shipping in a PVC tube. Also using UPS over USPS. Just my previous experience. Also quotes are spot on. $25-35

That's strange that the uni slipped. It's a type of cinch knot. The more you pull,the tighter it gets. How many wraps did you make?

It's definitely dependant on your area. I'm in Western Md with mountains. It's 6pm and 88 outside currently but it's not bad. Summertime is hot to me but it's not like it was when I lived in Ga or Fl. That's a different type of heat all together.

I'm going to compare it to something I'm familiar with and that's the tattoo industry. You can purchase a mass produced machine from a well known company for around $300-400 or you can purchase a machine that is hand built and personally tuned by a well known builder for $400-$1,500 depending on how fancy you go with engraving and materials. Most of them are signed and numbered plus the wait can be up to a year. You are paying for the persons experience,skill, and expertise in their field. The same goes for the tattoo artist them self. There are artists out there that have a 2yr wait and charge $600 + for a 3hr tattoo and a lot more for a full days session. You are paying for there skill. That's the bottom line.

Yeah it definitely sounds like there is a hairline crack in the lock nut somewhere. I have an d spinning rod that was my dads that does the same thing.

Gotta make sure nothing is crossed line wise when tying and then I always loosen/open up the overhand knot I make once I pass it over the lure. Open it up pretty far so when you are cinching the knot down you don't burn the line from friction. That's what really weakens fluorocarbon line.

The little pawl that's under the plastic cap on the level wind could be worn out. That's just a guess buy I'm sure someone will be able to answer your question.

It's not personal at all. It's all been discussed on here 10,000 times before.

#1 line and lure does nothing - false/debatable #2 red label is excellent - false/debatable #3 it's not invisible - false/debatable There's been plenty of underwater footage showing a bait on different line types and fluoro is the hardest to see underwater or 'invisible' as they like to say.

I towed my crawdad and small trailer with a Nissan sentra. I did that for about a year before I sold the car. My mom still drives the car everyday and hasn't had a problem with it.

Here is a good read on fluorocarbon lines from TT. Take a look and you might find out a few things you didn't know. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbon2.html