MN Fisher

Not gonna really affect anything...I don't even notice if my braid-tag is fraying.

@slonezp - that's gotta be your car, Paul.

Given the simplicity of this part - the Amazon ones should work just fine. Don't forget the Dielectric grease no matter how you're connecting power cables.

^ What others have said - FG when setting up pre-trip...Alberto on the water. Works fine with 8#-10# Sufix 832 to 6#-8# InvizX

It's a good color - the one the bass would hit on most when wacky rigged last year...I picked up a 100-pack last fall when it was also on sale.

Same here - lets see if I can recover some ground. I dropped from 3rd in the group to 27th just from this past weekend.

Bring it down to 900x1200 - that's the size I use most often

Question being can you get local support. I can buy my Mighty Max at the local Home Depot and get support there.I don't have to send it off somewhere.

Dude - as a guy who had his Journeyman License years ago...I just have one thing to ask. What are you on?

Both tips are good - you want the line to go on the reel the same way it comes off the spool. Since every baitcaster I've had the line reels in over the top...the line coming off the source should come off the top so the 'coils' are the same. Also, KVD Line and Lure Conditioner is almost necessary for not only FC but also Hybrid line.

By the time you finish with all the cross-sponsorships....everyone is talking to everyone.

That Mojo M/F will work as a drop-shot rod...go with a cranking stick if you must buy another rod...and a reel with a 24-27IPT. That rig will also work for chatter and spinnerbaits.

Chatted with the neighbor who does my lawn and show removal in exchange for letting him park some of his stuff in my yard. He says it's made the rounds of our neighborhood...he and his wife had it week before last.

After going over our finances - the wife gave me a pre-season gifting....already spent most of it on this, which Scheels has on sale...so still no LiveScope...but YES to upgrading to side-scan. I'll still keep the Striker 7CV - use that split screen on 2d and Down-Scan, the 93SV will alternate between split-screen of Map and Side-Scan or just Side-Scan. The fun will be routing the transducer cables from the bow to the stern - get the 7CV's off the TM...work on that while waiting for the 93 to show up. Ya, I could have driven the half-hour and done pickup...but Nora and I are both suffering bronchitis and I didn't feel like getting dressed.

Why not the wife? Doesn't she need the occasional shower? (runs and hides)

I only use Simple Green for tough jobs....like stripping paint off of scale models. Straight up Simple Green WILL remove model enamel paint...ask me how I know.

I know - just look at 'my man' - the Llama... 2021 was AOY...this year he's back in the bottom of the pack.

Can't argue with results though - 321 tournaments, 223 times in the money, 58 top 10 finishes....he produces.

There also different actions when you stop actively working it X-Rap and Husky Jerk are suspenders - does their best to hover in place Shadow Rap is a slow-sinking - it slowly drops. Rip-Stop is a slow riser - it'll lift it's nose up slightly and slowly start making it's way to the surface

The guide epoxy is just to protect the thread - provides little strength...most of your holding power is the thread wrap.

Ya - bourbon tastes better...even the cheapest stuff.

Clear nail polish would be my 1st choice for a 'cheap' repair job...get a bottle at the $1 store. Many moons ago, I built myself a fly rod when I was chasing trout in Northern MN...I even tied my own flies....long time since, but some things I still remember.

You're one up on me - I got mine used....so no warranty beyond the 30day 'Lemon Law'.

I go 6000 on my '01 Silverado 5.3L between changes....oil comes out looking not too bad...I could probably go 10k...but I gotta take extra care of this baby cause it's probably the last vehicle I'll buy.

Otherwise he's got nothing to say....