Chris Catignani

Welcome to the forum.

I will use two lightish coats of highbuild....the longer set up time allows me to finish a couple rods and or a lure. I also think the longer set up help with the penetration and makes less bubbles ( though you can achieve that other ways).

In case you never heard of Art Blakey...

The best line was... @Deleted account "Putting the spook in spooky action at a distance..." I cant tell you how many spooks I've seen disappear at a distance.

On my personal pitching stick (MH) is 5'11 from the tip to the reel seat and from there it ends up being 7'2". My body height is 5'11. So I needed to be able to make a pitch with out the rod being in the water (fishing from a boat). Of all the custom rods where you need to gather data...pitching is one of them.

It can also support, and lock in place, a poorly wrapped guide. But yeah it protects the thread. Originally is was a better "sealer" then lacquer products, which would take what seemed like five coats and would take a few days.

I would have to pick thread and epoxy. Now...someone may argue...But Chris..."the new wrap is lighter and more sensitive." And to that...I say lighter does not equate to more sensitive. It does mean that it weighs less and may be more comfortable over long hours. It may also mean that the blank dynamics dont change much. But it doesn't make it sensitive. That is a property of the material. The harder (transmits vibration) the better.

Man...spinner BAIT...great tool.

I would just go bigger...by the smallest amount you can.

If you meant advantage...The only thing that comes to mind is that epoxy will penetrate the tread all the way to the guide foot (if no CP). Which I can attest will secure a guide foot to no end. Not really sure what the other material properties are...

Have your read my book? Quantum Knot Theory for the Multiverse. An in depth look into quantum suppositions of time. Explaing how you can place rods all neatly into the rod locker...but when you go to take them out the rods are inter meshed. An in depth look at temporal time and Boltzmann's blurring effect. We see this when me make a hard cast and suddenly a lure is in the tree.

Nooooo...well maybe. Send me what size you need and you can IM me your address and I will send you one of these...freebie. ( the size in in metric...inside diameter)

Thats a spinning reel seat. AERO Spinning Reel Seats With Comfort Finish | theamericantackleco ..but totally usable like that. I like the Bushido blanks...I just got some CB 72/8-15...next build.

I think the moon and warming this week will put things in motion....

Elvin Bishop was part of the Southern Rock culture...Not necessarily a hit...but this one song one we listened to and sang...it kind of sticks in the head...plus it was spot on...

@MickD is right...it may be worth a try. I bet I have fixed about a dozen or so breaks. If it doesnt work like you want...you always have plan B. Here is a link to an article by Ralph O'Quinn...he taught me how to do it. Rod Repair by Ralph O'Quinn

I have this one thing I've done before.... I had a guy give me a bunch of broke rods once. 1: I took and sawed off the rod about 10 inches above the reel seat...keeping the logo etc... You will need to cut off the butt cap. I then just took another blank and slid the old handle over it. 2: The other method is to just cut everything away. If you take a razor blade (of sharp knife) cut the guide from the end of the guide foot toward the guide ring and just slice the thread off the top of the guide foot...then it will just come off. The handle is a crap shoot. I would just cut away the rear grip and see if the reel seat will break loose. Sometimes they do! (You could also try packing it in dry ice and seeing if it will break loose). If its glued in there pretty good....you can just cut it off the blank...at the back and at the front...and believe it or not...you can actually ream out the old blank...and you may get lucky and your next blank may just fit it perfect.

Welcome.

One thing Ive done ( and this would be the final step)...it to mix up a little epoxy and add a bit of black pigment (you could just use testers). I then stand the rod on its end and use a brush to fill the end of the reel seat. If you had some other material...you could essentially dig a little of it out to form a shallow cup. Let the rod stand and dry. This particular black epoxy is covering up a polyurethane arbor. Here is my spin on winding check (a lease some of them). The metal ones can and probably will scratch your blank when you slide it down. The rubber and plastic ones seem like they eventually get mashed or dented. And if you epoxied over em...the epoxy cracks. There are other good options...I just quit using them period.

Yes...winding check. There made out of all kinds of stuff: metal, plastic, rubber...just to name a few.