Fishingmickey

Pot calling the kettle black.

1/8 oz jig head with a 3" smoke colored curly tail grub.

Shad, My experience has been Fluorocarbon in heavier tests like 8# and up and smaller 1000 - 2500 sized spinning reels do not play well together. The fluorocarbon especially after you first spool the reel loves to jump off the spool (feathering your casts with your free hand and manual bail closing is necessary). The other thing I have experienced is when the line comes off of the spool during the cast it comes off in big loops and those loops slap against the rod as the line goes out (it's the stiffness of the Fluorocarbon that make the big loops) and that creates friction against the rod and it annoys me too. Hope that helps, FM

Yes, I do think it would negatively effect the kayak. The Lynx is different then the Roto-molded kayaks. It is a solid cored foam filled kayak that has a thermo-formed plastic skin. You'd be drilling a hole through the foam core and over time it might either break down or get waterlogged. I think you could used some type of Polyurethane adhesive or West Marine G-Flex epoxy to glue a T-track or two or block/s that you could screw into for a couple of pad eyes or straps to hold the battery in place. Might check with Hobie or the place you bought it from or if you've got a full service kayak dealer that knows what they are doing. Good Luck, Fishingmickey

You beat me to it. FM

Kistler 6'9" Helium 3 - 3.5 oz Shimano Stephano - 4.9 oz Total 8.4 oz

A buddy of mine uses a 55 gal. drum with the top cut off. FM

Look for the edges! Current breaks, weed lines, back flowing eddies, downstream of lay downs or logs and pocket's that look like good hiding spots for a bass to lie in wait for prey to come by. Deeper pockets will be where the current slows. Down stream of inside bends, under cut banks. Good luck! FM

Beautiful Smallmouth, AJay! FM

Just as a FYI for those that aren't familiar with the Lynx. It is more like a foam filled stand up paddle board then a Kayak. It's solid, molded foam filled with a solid plastic overskin. No backing plates can be added unless you go all the way through. You might be able to steal a page out of the Boone Docks play book. If you can find some really good adhesive. Either like some of the polyurethane adhesives Like NP1, Silkaflex or liquid nails. 3M's 5200 marine adhesive comes to mind also so you can glue a square tubing support across where you want the wheels and then you can put them on in the water to pull out or turn them so they are up when your using the Lynx, Best regards, FM

Hello Kirtley, I myself had thought I had gotten past it. I got Covid in the beginning of August. It was a mild case and I had the blahs for about four days. I have had the Moderna vaccine in 2021 and boosted in mid-22. I got a prescription for Paxlovid and took the five days of horse pills regime. I had no shortness of breath, a very light cough and not much appetite. I drank a lot of water and had light food for several days. By day six I was pretty much back to normal. I hope you and Melody get well quickly. Fishingmickey

Beautiful fish, Alex! Fine job completing the GA slam. FM

I've had a couple of chunks of Basil Cell Carcinoma removed. The big one was on my face It was 18mm x 13mmx 4mm deep. It was just to the left of my nose. They did Mose surgery and I was awake through the four hour procedure. I cover up and sun block/screen on nose and cheeks that show. FM

Painting it black, it might get hotter then hell in the sun. FM

Howdy SGjack, Light weight (<80#), stable enough to stand, pedal drive that can handle weeds.I don't know of any kayaks that fill that bill except for the Hobie Lynx. The Lynx is more like a stand up paddle board with the mirage drive. It is light at 47lbs and expensive at $3200. The Hobie mirage drive is the best drive IMHO for dealing with weeds. Any of the prop drives are just going to get fouled and require cleaning ( I don't speak from experience with them just word of mouth). I fish out of a PA14. The Hobie Compass and Passport are lighter weight then the Outback or PRO Angler is. JFranco may chime in. He owns or owned a Compass. Regards, Fishingmickey

WRB is spot on again with regrind vs none. Look at that line diameter. Like anything else. You get what you pay for in fluorocarbon! Seaguar's Tatsu 15# .013", Diawa's Samurai 14# .0127", Sunline Sniper #14 .0122". I also like Seaguar Invisx #15 .013". Yes, they are expensive but you can literally see and tell the difference. FM I checked BPS Excel and 15# was .013". Vicious (is really stiff/springy) #15 was .015.

You had a direct short. Note the melted red plastic on the black wire alligator clip. You need to put in-line fuses (like on the Garmin) on the troller red wire. Easy peasy to find at the auto parts store. I suspect that it was your trolling motor connection and motor or wires were shorted. Wires heat up almost instantly, just like the controlled short in a cigarette lighter. The wires for the trolling motor look small and the alligator clips are way too small. Bigger wire, bigger clips makes for less resistance. When it happens instantly it's a short. If they get hot to the touch when in use. The wiring is too small. Think of it like a pipe, bigger pipe better the electron flow less loss through resistance (heating). FM

Full spool Fluorocarbon and spinning reels do not play well together. you can get away with it in the lighter tests. Look at the diameter like WRB suggested. Newly spooled fluorocarbon of the higher lb/test diameter will spring off the reel like a slinky. I do use fluorocarbon on spinning reels but it is almost always between 4-8# and the higher quality fluorocarbons. Tatsu or Diawa Samurai is the limpest of the fluorocarbon lines. I use it for light weight finesse lures, Neds, 1/16 oz jig, small balsa cranks and underspins. Fluorocarbon has much better sensitivity on slack line (the fall). If your planning on fishing it a lot. Go braid to leader and save the headaches of line twist. FM

All of your rods are MH, one fast action, two moderate. You can use them for whatever you want to tie on the end of the line. You'll see a recommended weight range on the rod. If the weight of the lure is much under that range it will be harder to cast that lure accurately and your distance will suffer because the rod won't load (bend) when you cast. If you go a lot over that rating bad things can happen like your rod breaking when you try a bomb cast with that 6 oz Hudddleston swim bait. You can push it some but I don't recommend trying to surf cast a 2 or 3 oz bait and sinker on a rod that is rated for 1 oz. Go out and let your wild inhibitions free, experiment, try different things. There are no rules just limitations. Find those limits for your rods and you'll be able to figure out what works well and what doesn't! Happy experimenting! FM

It's a outstanding versatile reel capable of dang near any technique. FM

I dangle all the time, I switch rods and presentations a lot, especially when junk fishing. Two, three and sometimes even four rods are ready to fly in a instant. I do put them up when I am spot fishing with one or two baits or when I am traveling from spot to spot. I carry 15 rods on my kayak when I tourney fish. Usually a couple of spinning rods, a finesse worm rod or two. MH rigs with spinner bait, chatter bait, heavier t-rig, and a couple of crank baits. Managing your rods and gear and how well you do it is pretty much up to the individual. FM

Since it hasn't been mentioned yet. Diawa Samurai Fluorocarbon. I use the 12# for finesse-y jig or T-rig and 16# or 18# for full sized jig and t-rig in heavy cover or weeds/lilly pads. FM

So good to hear A-jay! Fishingmickey

Fluoro and mono have different properties and aren't the same. Fluoro is much more sensitive to being kinked then mono. In fact it really hates being kinked hard. Hence the weaker knot strength and me learning how to gently pick out a backlashes without pulling hard on the line when I get them. I feel that mono stretches differently then fluoro. Mono stretches sooner then fluoro (IMHO). Mono, I feel recovers from being stretched much better then fluoro. I don't think fluoro recovers much from stretching and is weaker from being stretched. Fluoro is stiffer then Mono. Bite detection is better with fluoro because it is stiffer and sinks. Mono is better for topwater since it doesn't sink like fluoro and it almost floats. Bass eat Alabama rigs and love spinner baits and they are line shy? Do I think the invisibility factor/marketing ploy for fluoro makes a difference? Maybe, maybe not. Using either as a leader material (6-8' long) and tied to braid. I think it is good so when you get hung up your can break the line without removing fingers. In summation IMHO, Fluoro for bottom contact baits, Mono for top water baits. Braid for punching, flipping and frogs. Psssst, I fish crankbaits on 20 & 30lb braid. Let the bass tell you what works and what doesn't. FM

Try some silver polish, Brasso, Duraglit, rubbing compound or jewelers rouge? CLR, Tri sodium phospate (TSP) or Tarnx? I'd wear rubber gloves with any of the last four. FM