LOADS of information in this video.  I spent a ton of time talking to various folks in the industry to get to the truth.  A big thanks to Dave Davis of DD26 Fishing for all his help!

 

 

Nicely Done.

I was a staunch believer of the long 'old' style transom saver for several years.

Worked fine but was definitely a little bit of a PIA to install & remove. 

Last year took a flyer on the DD26 products - Very happy so far.

Especially like the hydraulic steering locks.

A-Jay

 

 

 

Excellent video??

Tom

Still use the same type I used on my old runabout back in the 90s - the long-arm style. It's not too much of a hassle to get it in...takes me less than a minute.

5 hours ago, A-Jay said:

Nicely Done.

I was a staunch believer of the long 'old' style transom saver for several years.

Worked fine but was definitely a little bit of a PIA to install & remove. 

Last year took a flyer on the DD26 products - Very happy so far.

Especially like the hydraulic steering locks.

A-Jay

Just bought this for my new 200 4 stroke 

 

Good video.  

 

My old boat didn't have power trim.  I'd pick the motor up, put a pin in to hold it, and turn it all the way to one side.  

 

My current boat came with a "transom saver" that goes from the trailer to the lower unit.   I just set the steering straight.  I don't think anyone makes steering stops for cable steering.  

What I have seen and asked boat dealerships outboard jets do not need transom savers I do not have to raise it up but, I would still think it puts excess wear on the pump and transom. 

My biggest take away was making sure the boat seats properly on the trailer.

I watched this video yesterday and then loaded the boat in an approaching thunderstorm…… and ironically forgot mine…… I remembered a few miles down the road and found a covered row of gas pumps to hop out and install it 

I use a Wedge.  Growing up we always used the metal one that @MN Fisher posted.  When I bought my boat in 2015, the salesman talked me into using a My Wedge.  Its a hardened piece of plastic that fits under the hydraulic piston and prevents any kind of bouncing while on the trailer.  Costs pretty much the same price as a standard transom saver, but is far smaller.

 

https://m-ywedge.com/collections/universal-single-ram-motor-support

If I had a three hundred lb or more outboard on my transom they might be worth it, but for my 40 hp 2 stroke,I wouldnt bother spending the money.  Have used various products over 60 years of boating with both good and bad results.  My current motor has a power trim and tilt, now think about this...this is designed to hold back 40 hp, while lifting a thousand pound boat out of the water doing 30 mph...look at the leverage dissadvantage the trim needs to overcome in order to trim the boat out !!  My boat is rated for 80 hp but only has a 40 so the transom has no issues with the weight and pressure supporting this motor.  I have never had a trim issue supporting the motor or outdrive on any of my boats.  Now..with that said...if my boat was maxed out with the biggest possible motor and I were stressing everything to the max, then a much better reason for going to a premium support system.  Consider your application carefully then decide what is safest for your boat and motor...bottom line is, the bolts, clamps, and transom all are stressed no matter what device you do or don' t use.  Consider carefully !!!

Great video Glenn and love the enthusiasm.

Don't believe the part about driving down the road to get the boat to seat itself on the trailer. One time I got my boat on the trailer crooked. I made a 45 mile run to get home. That boat had not moved at all. Ended up lifting it up with a floor jack to get it seated on the trailer the way it is supposed to be.

34 minutes ago, Log Catcher said:

Don't believe the part about driving down the road to get the boat to seat itself on the trailer. One time I got my boat on the trailer crooked. I made a 45 mile run to get home. That boat had not moved at all. Ended up lifting it up with a floor jack to get it seated on the trailer the way it is supposed to be.

I've drawn one strap way tighter on one side in hopes of equalizing boat position on trailer during travel, never works.

 

Best to take your time and do it right while loading...... lesson learned.

Good video.  You and I have the same motor (if yours is a 250).  I have used both styles.  I originally had a lower unit to trailer style.  Why?  Because I was in direct contact with Ranger and it was the only toter they approved.  Times may have changed but for the reasons you gave I did switch over to the smaller unit but not the DD26 model.  I have seen a lot of different makers and contact points.  Some requiring attaching additional plates for spring loaded pins to mount in and varying contact points between the models.  Problems have ranged from material wear on some, fitment problems where the unit if not carefully attached, would cut the engine ground wire.  The one I have was designed specifically for my motor and custom made also out of aircraft aluminum.  It has lasted through 4 separate boats before it got to me and has zero wear.  I think it would be very interesting to query the major boat manufacturers and tally their recommendations.  Now that Caymas, Vexus, Ikon, and a couple more have entered the market their perspective would be interesting.  As far as I know, no one has queried the engine manufacturers either. 

Mine is totally redneck, custom, and wooden, but it’s been working for a few years 

 

I got fed up buying the lower unit to trailer style ones and the rubber V notch that held the leading edge of the LU splitting 

1 hour ago, Bird said:

Best to take your time and do it right while loading...... lesson learned.

If I pull out and see that my boat is on crooked, I simply back in so that the boat floats onto the trailer properly. Hasn’t happened more than a couple times over the years. I’ve also seen people simply lift the boat up and move it to the middle of the trailer, but the boat was pretty small and probably on the lighter side.

Spent numerous trips to the launch ramp making adjustments and adding and moving rollers until the trailer was set correctly !!  I dont think my boat could go on crooked if it wanted to !!

When I bought my new boat, I read a lot on this.  I was really torn. I was swayed to buy the DD26 when I found it on a nice sale.  I really like after using for a season. It is light and well made.  Seems to work fine.  Not sure if it is the best for my transom, but it is easy and a little peace of mind. 

If you get your boat loaded crooked winch the front down, then back in a little deeper into the water.  It will center itself.  

15 hours ago, gimruis said:

I use a Wedge.  Growing up we always used the metal one that @MN Fisher posted.  When I bought my boat in 2015, the salesman talked me into using a My Wedge.  Its a hardened piece of plastic that fits under the hydraulic piston and prevents any kind of bouncing while on the trailer.  Costs pretty much the same price as a standard transom saver, but is far smaller.

 

https://m-ywedge.com/collections/universal-single-ram-motor-support

Me too.  I’ve had a lot of different ones over the years and I like the way they fit on my Verado.

 

Learning the proper trailer depth for correct loading and paying attention when you back it in alleviates incorrect boat positioning.

2 hours ago, Jig Man said:

Me too.  I’ve had a lot of different ones over the years and I like the way they fit on my Verado.

My Father uses a wedge on his 75 hp 4-stroke Yamaha outboard too.  Some model of outboards may not be suitable for the hydraulic wedge though.

 

When I was a kid, we had a 16 foot tiller aluminum Sylvan fishing boat with a 25 hp 2-stroke outboard and we used a piece of 2 x 4 to brace it while trailering.  It did not have a hyrdraulic lift though, it was manual.

4 hours ago, gimruis said:

My Father uses a wedge on his 75 hp 4-stroke Yamaha outboard too.  Some model of outboards may not be suitable for the hydraulic wedge though.

 

When I was a kid, we had a 16 foot tiller aluminum Sylvan fishing boat with a 25 hp 2-stroke outboard and we used a piece of 2 x 4 to brace it while trailering.  It did not have a hyrdraulic lift though, it was manual.

2x4 is what I wedge in there as well but with another board screwed to it and then I tie that all down to the metal hooks on the boat 

8 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

2x4 is what I wedge in there

What size outboard is yours?

 

This was an older 2-stroke 25 hp that wasn't nearly as heavy as the modern 4-strokes.  We could lift it off the back of the transom with two people and put it in the basement for the winter lol.  I would never attempt something like that with a heavier 4-stroke nowadays.

 

I hated that outboard.  It was loud, it had fumes, and it was frequently unreliable.  My Father was always trying to put in the correct mixture of gasoline and oil into that fossil.  Today's 4-strokes whip the snot out of that thing in every aspect.

Mines a 50 4 stroke , it’s had 3-4 years to break the 2x4 and still hasn’t