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How do you chose?

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  • Super User

When you buy a new reel what is your process for making your choice of what to buy?

I only consider Daiwa or Shimano.  I go to Tackle Tour and read their reviews.  I also visit their forum and read user reviews or possibly ask a question.  They have a lot of users with high-end knowledge so they are great for detailed info.  I'll do Google searches between the reels I am considering and usually somewhere someone has posted the exact question I have (often times from this site).  

 

Recently, I was researching a new baitcaster and this was the process I went through.  I first looked in the $200-$300 range at Tatulas and Curados.  Then, I bumped up my budget to the Zillion/Bantam range and decided on a Zillion that I'll probably get through Bass Pro's trade in a reel promo in March.  At the fishing shows in January I'll see these reels in person which will help me finalize my decision.  

I haven't bought a reel in awhile. But the last couple were chosen based on reviews and general tackle talk on Bass Resource. Ive also looked at Tackle Tour to see what they had to say.

  • Super User

I’ve fished a bunch of different things and I’ve come to the same place as junk fisherman- it’s either Daiwa or Shimano for me.  I have a certain price point/quality level that I need/demand/require/am used to which is Bantam/Metanium/Zillion.  It’s hard to downgrade once you’ve gone up a level in performance.  I still have my Revos and while perfectly fine reels I just notice the difference.  I’ll use them when i want to try something different out or throw in a spare for something at times.  But If I need a baitcaster (or see a good deal on one of these) then that’s the answer.  

 

Spinning reels is easier- it’s a JDM stradic or nothing.  

  • Super User

I buy what the Bait Monkey tells me to buy.  Same goes with tackle.  The most difficult part of the process is how to sneak the Bait Monkey in to the house and get him back out without the person in charge knowing he was there.

I keep it really simple:

 

- If I plan to do any skipping, flipping, or pitching with the reel, it's a Daiwa SV of some type. For the sake of balance, a light rod will get a smaller reel (size 70-100), whereas a heavier rod will get a larger one (size 100-150).  

- If not, it's a Shimano MGL of some type. Same sizing/weight criteria for as above. 

 

It's that easy. 

  • Super User

I read reviews on a reel that I'm thinking about buying. If I can, I like to handle them first, and check smoothness, action and size.

I see what  I want to use the reel for, check what will fit into my budget, read reviews, then I make my selection. 

  • Super User

Simple - baitcast reel - widest possible weight range with highest cast reliability and simplest set-up.  

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Spinning reel - complicated, self-destroying mechanism - longest possible life.  

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After that, it's commonality, e.g., ability to swap spools on the water without hauling a suitcase.  

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Baitcaster - pick something with Daiwa hyperdrive gears, be happy.

Bigger for swimbaits, tat100 for "just another reel", zillion G or HD otherwise. 

  • Super User

When I got back into fishing I bought budget reels, working my way up the price point scale gradually.

 

Now I buy out of curiosity (early adopter). 
 

Lew’s Custom Pro was my last purchase. I found it on sale and wanted to see how it stacked up against Shimano’s DC technology. It’s been on my jerkbait rod for a year now, replacing the XT DC that was on it.

  • Super User

I figure out the best makes and models for the presentations I want to use it for.  Next, I read all I can find about them.  Sometime in there I'm going to head out to the store to see if I can find one to hold to see what it feels like.  Finally, I'm going to read reviews by people that actually own the reel.

  • Super User

First thing I do is consider how much I am going to invest in the whole set up and set a limit. For instance, if it was a glide bait rod and reel, I might not spend as much since I am probably going spend a lot on just the baits.  If it's a bottom contact jig rod, the sky's the limit.

 

After cost I consider technique and what I am going to use it for so this makes the rod come first. Once I get the rod, I pick a reel based on how it feels with one of the reels I already have. I will pick something close to its weight and size to get a feel for it. I might cast it around the yard or a local pond. This is where the bait monkey steps in and tells me to either get the latest and greatest or to get something similar to what I already have.  

 

I then have to decide is this for fun fishing or for tournament fishing. Will it get beat up, fill a niche, or sit and get used on a special occasion? After its purpose has been established, I start to consider things like gear ratio, line capacity, what line is it going to get, handle size, drag, etc. Another thing I think about is where can I get parts and can I work on it but this is usually an after thought. That finally leads to US or JDM.  I consider cost versus warranty and parts and I usually go JDM.  

 

I might look at reviews online and how to work on a the reel in question but rarely have these videos discouraged me from buying. 

Don’t order through Bass Pro. Get a JDM zillion. Will save you money.  Just my 2 cents…

Shimano Citica or Curado. But I'm old-school. 

 

Find what works for you, fits your hand, easy to operate....find something you like, that fits your budget, and stick with it. 

I go to a store.  I don't order. I like to have the product in my hands.

Braking profile is #1.  If I want a control focused braking profile for skipping or casting glide baits on heavy non braid then I'm going with a reel with a braking profile that matches.  If I want distance  with compact long casting baits then I am going with a reel with a braking profile that is very free at the end of the cast and let's the bait sail away.  I'm not going to use the wrong reel for the job and fight against a free casting reel by using spool tension to slow the spool down or fight against a control focused reel by going super low on the brake settings trying to free up the bait at the end of the cast and fight inconsistent braking behavior.  Generally speaking, control = some sort of Daiwa and distance = Shimano SVS, other centrifugal or Daiwa with a distance tuned braking profile.

I look at my budget then my technique. Look at this site and other sites to see what is recommended for each budget and I read the reviews of the product. 

  • Super User

lately, how do I choose?  usually I just go with something that rhymes with Million...

 

:D

  • Super User

The first thing I do is set the budget for the reel.  I look at Diawa and Shimano models albeit there are a couple other brands that have specific models in the line up that deserve consideration if the price is right. That situation is rare though.  To determine the model, I look at braking system, frame and spool size, handle length and knob size,  spool capacity gear ratio options.  Bearing count can be considered but these days that is subjective.  I’ve seen where some anglers actually buy a reel because it looks cool or color matched a rod.  Not me.  I don’t rule out pre owned reels.  I have snagged a couple on the flea market that were gems. Thanks Tom.

I think I've bought 7 new reels in the last couple months. My decision making process was piggybacked off previous experience and knowledge. 

 

In 2016 or 2017 I bought my first Shimano Curado i 7.4:1 and really loved it. A few months later I bought a Shimano Curado K 8.5:1 and not long after that I bought a 6.2:1. I used these 3 reels from 2017 up until 2025 caught a bunch of fish with them. I had a bad fishing season for 2025, so I plan to expand my techniques, locations, knowledge, and abilities in 2026. This of course means new gear. 

 

I wanted reels that could cast smaller lures better. I really love my curado K reels, but they have never been worth a darn at finesse at least for me. It was pretty straightforward to work into Curado 71 and 151 sizes with experience using curado reels. And for the "new" spinning reel i bought i literally bought another of the the same thing I already had. Spinning reels I like a big knob to turn/a 2500 size spool and the anti reverse/freespool function. I have a couple older pflueger supreme reels that fit this. 

 

Curado mgl 71 hg

curado mgl 71 xg

curado mgl 151 

curado mgl 151 hg

curado mgl 151 hg

slx dc 151 xg

pflueger supreme 8230  

 

I kept my curado k 6.2 and a Pflueger supreme. 

I almost exclusively buy pre owned reels with a proven track record and features that appeal to me. I also have the luxury of being able to upgrade, diagnose and repair myself if needed. Quality wise you almost can’t go wrong with any established brand in the $100> range. Daiwa and Shimano are obvious leaders in the market but others are justifiable purchases too. The 6-7 year planned obsolescence and discontinuation of parts is a thorn in my side but one we have to live with. I don’t see that or any imagined sell off scenario to stop one from buying a Bates reel to try. They look good on paper and the made in USA factor is appealing. I’ll be servicing one here shortly. I’ll share my impressions afterwards. 

On 12/20/2025 at 5:04 PM, Jig Man said:

When you buy a new reel what is your process for making your choice of what to buy?

I typically buy a reel and rod at the same time so I have a specific use/application in mind. I only have D's and S's which provide a ton of selection. A few other times I've bought a reel to upgrade/replace something and I use the same approach.  Generally the more expensive the rod it, the more I spend on the reel..lol.  Last combo is a MB P5 Gravel Code w/Calcutta Conquest BFS.

In no particular order (and I only fish spinning and fly reels):

 

1) Budget.  If it's a reel that's going to be fished every day, my budget will be higher than a reel fished a couple of times a year.

2) Build quality and repairability.  I will ask repair folks what they like based on what's been in the shop for service and repair.

3) Fishing environment.  Choices will be different based on freshwater vs. saltwater.

4) Weight.  If the reel is being fished every day, lighter is better for me.

 

Like some others, I tend to buy used.  Even some vintage if it fits the bill.

  • Super User

Read reviews, read reviews, read reviews.  Buy what interests me regardless of brand.  Buy used or closeouts majority of the time.  Don't recall ever paying listed price.

 

My reels get babied, so not too dependent on spare part availability although that is definitely a plus.

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