.RM.

There are only 3 bearings at the most that control what the reel can do as far as casting. Anything else will be in areas of the reel for the cranking feel. The 3 are spool support bearings and as far as the quality of those bearings ALL stock bearings are of the same tolerances ABEC3 and all are Stainless Steel just the CR's (corrosion resistant) are built different... This doe NOT include the Hybrid bearings Quantum uses (IMPO they are just plain crap anyway) Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!

Back in the days TriMax, then Sensation and XL ..

I agree with RW...WHAT? Then why login and ask for any..... : Tight Lines!!!

First why not learn how to spell, DAIWA Then why not contact Daiwa® direct......? Daiwa Corporation 12851 Midway Place Cerritos, CA, 90703 admail@daiwa.com Telephone: (562) 802-9589 Fax Number: (562) 404-6212 Office Hours: Monday to Friday 7:00am to 4:00pm PST.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

If the rod is a Loomis®, I would use the Expeditor system. Otherwise find a local rod builder to repair the reel seat. It would have to be drilled at a minimum and epoxy plugged. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Me to.. I use Extra fast tip actions all the time. I have to argue that point made in the article, because NO consideration is being made about proper setup of drags or the use of the thumb to feather adjust tensions. The rod and reel are the system. The article state its the rod mostly I disagree... 15 yr rod builder....

There isn't just one, maybe 5 to 10... But as you can see it just depends on who you talk to.... : Just the .02¢ of a custom rod builder Tight Lines!!!

Loosen the thumbscrew just over the crank, and then rotate the palming side plate down a quarter. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Quantum 621 long time discontinued reel (early 90's). I know that the factory will not carry that spool (they won't stock anything older than 6 yrs), your going to have to find another non working 621 for the spool... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

6 big negatives for me (just from reading the marketing), Adopted SIC guides (probably cloned), IPS/ECS typed twisted reel seats (probably cloned), spigot-joint ferrule*, EVA, 2pc, Korean made... *(A type of ferrule comprised of a plug or internal sleeve joined internally and permanently to one rod section and fitting inside another section by means of a friction fit.) Over time they do get lose and fail... Just a builders 2¢ worth. Tight Lines!!! PS: Raul i'm a bank fisherman and use custom built rods...

Mojo's nice rods, been building that style for 5 years now and even on the same blanks.. Oh man 30lb Power Pro and 11" dinks and blue gills can you say "rushing spring time".... Not a very good test of a rods abilities....

For tops and Spinnerbaits I use 6'6" to 7' med power with fast action tips, and have used some Medium Heavy...It's all in the rod/reel setup IMO. Tight Lines!!!

If I had to pick a reel for my first time break down it would be a Garcia round reel for sure. Next time try a LP an see how that goes. As far as spinning gear if I had a to pick a reel for the first time break down I wouldn't because their isn't an easy spinning reel to work on. The lack of solid and fluid motion on your bail is probably some side pressure on the bails pivot points. Takes a lot of practice time on spinning to be able to get them just right..I have 24 years practice and they still bug me worse than the newer BC reels... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

I don't use that much spinning gear but off of the top of my head.. Should be 3 of them, not sure if they are of different thicknesses. What the small red/black washers do is adjust the in and out motion or the stroke length of the spool inside the rotor as the rotor turns. The more distance from the rotor base the spool stays the closer to the rear of the spool the line is stacked. Removing or adding washers is how the line stacking is adjusted (again not sure if they are of different thicknesses). As far as what works for mono most all of the Shimano spinning reels I have serviced that had mono on them seemed to have all 3 washers on the spool main shaft. It is how the spools setup (positioning) on the main shaft is adjusted and as stated it adjust the stroke length of the spool as it moves in & out and the rotor turns...Hope that helps some....

Sorry you feel that way.. You could try looking in your local yellow pages for a reel service shop or your favorite tackle shop and ask who they use... If you had pm'd me and asked you would find out that my turnaround time is only 3-7 days at most from the time I receive the reels... Of course if your reels aren't in the Shimano®, Daiwa®, Garcia®, or Quantum® line-ups, then all this is a none point... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

newfish,If you have never done a complete break down of a reel then don't try. Look in your local yellow pages for a reel service shop in your area or ask your local tackle shop who does it for them. If nothing there, goto the advertisers pages here and click my ad banner, I can do the job in about 2 days once I get the reel (just depends on how many I have on he bench). Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Probably does, the way that reel is made inside you would need a ton of grease just to keep them old parts moving against each other anyway..

That's great, there is nothing better!! Now even when you can't make it to the lake side. Take yourself and a small bucket as a target and practice short cast (10' to 20') into the bucket. The more practice you get the better the hand eye coordination gets... Your gonna be catching soon.... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

TommyBass If your really interested, check out this article.. HOW TO CLEAN and SEAL YOUR CORK HANDLES! Tight Lines!!!

And to keep the pit filler in place... But Yes take the plastic off for sure, I have seen cork turn green on rods that got wet with the shrink wrap left on. Remove the shrink wrap while the cork is new and, seal the cork with a cork sealer like Trondak U-40 cork sealer.. It will not only keep the cork cleaner it will give you the ability to clean the cork periodically and, seals the pit fillers used and keeps them from falling out... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

The shrink wrap is to keep the pit filler from falling out before the purchase. Once you take it off and the cork starts to weather, the filler will start to fail and you end up with pits in the grip. That's why a lot of anglers leave the shrink wrap on the grips, plus it will stay cleaner. ghost, I hated the made in China tags I use to see on some of the rod blanks I would build on also, but even with the tag removed they are still made in China... Tight Lines!!!

For stock bearings contact Daiwa directly.Daiwa Corporation 12851 Midway Place Cerritos, CA, 90703 admail@daiwa.com Telephone: (562) 802-9589 Office Hours: Monday to Friday 7:00am to 4:00pm PST You don't say what Steez you have so I won't bother with bearing part numbers, but when you talk with them they will want the numbers from your schematic... Your other choice will be bearing upgrades there are a few sites that carry them, I am one of them... Good luck & Tight Lines!!!

Yup ya all take them $150 to $350 dollar reels and crack them open, clean um with soap and water then spray that WD-40 stuff in there real good, we really like it when you do that...... : Personally I like it when Homer tells anglers to do that. You wouldn't believe the rush on "how to service a reel" manuals and "lubricants"... Tight Lines All!!!

I have a custom AC70MF and AC66MF I use for weightless jerkbaits (Zulu), light weight spinnerbaits, and light weight buzzbaits, trebled tops pop-r, chugbugg, etc. All with 1994 upgraded greenie curado 201's on them... Great rods and blanks... Tight Lines!!!

Lipped might have part of the answer there. How much lateral play does the spool have when in free spool mode? If you can feel the spool moving laterally and hear a slight ticking sound the spool is in fact way to lose. Sometimes this will cause a whining sound. I would suspect that when you cleaned the bearing packs you didn't get all the old grease or oil out. I would re-soak the bearings again then blow them out, and let air dry for a few min. When you re-lube the bearings hold the needle noise up off of the bearing race (shield) and let a full drop of oil drip onto the bearing let this soak in for a few min. Re-assemble the bearings into the reel as you have done before, and test again. I have one question do you have the bearing behind the drive pin on the spool shaft (SF reels) or nothing there?